Organic wine match of the day: Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva

December 27, 12:28 PMDenver Wine ExaminerRandy Caparoso

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When you think of Italy’s Toscana (Tuscany) region, you think of medieval towns perched precipitously atop rolling hills, squat cars and mopeds screaming down harrowing cobblestoned streets from grey dawns to impossibly golden sunsets.

But you also think of Tuscan cuisine.  Green olive oil soft and fruity enough to drink, white beans and hand formed orrechiette, rosemary studded open-fire roasts, and of course the wine – red, of course, and smooth yet snappy:  Chianti and its finest zone, Chianti Classico. 

In the mid-‘90s Chianti’s Badia a Coltibuono committed to the then unusual practice of organic grape growing; not to save the world, but rather to strengthen identity of the estate.  According to Coltibuono’s current director, Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti (Coltibuono.com):  “Badia a Coltibuono has witnessed a thousand years of history,” and for centuries “was self-sufficient and managed following the farming methods first developed in the 11^th century by Vallombrosian monks.” 

The movement to historic farming has gradually revived the quality of their wines as well as extra virgin olive oils to the point where they now “express with strength and authenticity their origins… the color and perfumes sing the song of these rugged hills…”

The 2005 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva is indeed a pure, nearly flawless expression of the region; beginning with a lush, red berry nose with undertones of forest floor twigs and rose petal potpourri.  Like classic Chianti, it’s not about “big” fruit and tannin, but rather seamless composition; its densely concentrated yet silken flavors finishing long, almost sweet in intensity.  

Seamlessness also means hyper-food compatibility.  What is great Chianti for?  In the winter I prefer to highlight its foresty notes with rustic stews of beef or lamb, with root vegetables like parsnips and turnips.  This Braised Beef Stew with Okra and Smoked Sausage points you in the right direction; the okra echoing both the texture and terroir of Chianti, although I would substitute an Italian sausage (brings out the fennel notes in the wine) for the spicy calabreza recommended in the recipe.

WINE BASICS #2:  Can't Mess with Mother Nature

Although the wine growing and production industry around the world is driven by knowledge of how best to do things based upon centuries of trial-and-error, Mother Nature still has her say in things.  Early spring frosts or hailstorms, for instance, can determine whether or not a château in Bordeaux produces half as much wine as last year, or twice as much.  Nature’s control of rain or sun during the summer and fall months determines whether or not the quality of the château’s wine is half as good as last year’s, or twice as good.  Translated into economics, Nature’s grip on grape quality may very well determine if a château’s wine sells for $100 a bottle, or just $30 a bottle; and for that matter, whether or not the château owner’s wife (or girlfriend) gets a new Maserati this year, or just a pre-owned Mercedes.   

Bottom line:  no matter how much knowledge, experience, high tech growing or fermentation tools a wine producer may have at his disposal, wine is still very much an agricultural product.  Quality begins and ends with the grape.