How to add waves and curls back to chemically straightened or relaxed tresses

October 12, 5:55 PMNorth Dallas Beauty ExaminerKaren Shelton

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Image of Anna Lynn McCord
Coutesy The CW 90210
Patrick Ecclesine/The CW ©2008

One of the common challenges someone with chemically straightened or relaxed hair experiences is determining the proper method of altering their newly straightened or relaxed look back to curly, wavy or kinky without causing damage or breakage.

One thing is for certain. If you've had your hair chemically treated to change the texture to straight or relaxed, having any additional retexturizing treatments almost certainly guarantees long term hair damage including hair breakage.

Instead of looking to a chemical treatment to replace lost curls or waves look to more gentle, natural methods.

Adding Non-Chemically Created Waves: One relatively safe method would be to braid your hair while it's damp, after you cleanse it or spritz it with water.

Follow the steps below:
1. Apply a good leave-in conditioner or moisturizing styling product approximately 1" from the roots down to the ends.  Use a product that will not only add moisture but help to hold the finished set.  You can use a little gel or setting lotion to make the style last longer but don't use too much or hair will be sticky.
2. Use your fingers to carefully detangle tresses working slowly from ends up to the roots.
3. Separate strands into individual designated braid sections depending on how many braids you wish to create.  You can experiment with braiding right at the roots or further down for different styles.  Also experiment with parts and fringes to create a custom hairstyle.
4. Plait each target  braid section into a simple three strand braid. Gather  finished braid at ends with hair friendly elastic band.  Never use rubber bands which can break or rip delicate tresses.
5. Allow the braids to air-dry completely or if you're in a hurry, sit under a hood style dryer set on cool, slow heat.  Make sure braids are totally dry before removing plaits to look in new shape.
6. When braids are 100% dry slowly remove them one braid at a time.  
7. After removing each braid spritz hair with soft non-alcohol based styling spray or apply styling cream.
8. Use fingers to gently pick through strands and arrange as desired.  Do not brush or comb.

After you have finished removing all the braids, finger picking and arranging you should have lovely waves and S hair shapes. But, it works pretty well without any special styling products.

Note: Keep in the mind the more braids you create and the smaller the sections, the tighter the waves will be. 

Adding Non-Chemical Curls: The best methods to add back curls to chemically straightened or relaxed tresses is to create a wet set where hair is rolled into rollers, straws or rags and then allowed to dry either overnight or under a hood dryer.

Depending on the amount of curl select the curling rods to match. Straw sets generally create tighter ringlets while rollers and rags create softer, looser curls.

When in doubt about the best curling methodoly to employ on your chemically treated hair consult with your favorite hairdresser to get their suggestions.

If money is no object you can visit your hairdresser and request a wet set describing the size, shape and amount of bounce of the ultimate curls you desire.

For more info:  Visit HairBoutique.com for more tips on hair, beauty, fashion and related.