Continuing culinary travel through Talbot County, MD

October 6, 9:39 PMBaltimore Culinary Travel ExaminerReed Hellman

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Third course: exploring the Bay Hundred

This is our third post in a four-post series.

St. Michaels is also the entry to the Bay Hundred. In Colonial parlance, a “hundred” was the political designation for a region occupied by at least 100 free men. Today’s Bay Hundred extends from St. Michaels to the end of the peninsula at Blackwalnut Point, where the Choptank River empties into the Chesapeake. Along the way, in the fishing village of Bozman, PT Hambleton Seafood brings in catches of succulent soft-shell crabs. “Softies” are the familiar blue crabs in the process of growing. A crab outgrows its shell and molts, shedding the hard chitinous case and the outer covering of its feet, eyestalks, and antennae. Soft, lethargic, and helpless, soft shells are also totally edible, both the juicy, rich meat and the outer paper-like covering. Fried, broiled, or sautéed, soft shell crabs constitute an exceptional feast.

Further down the peninsula in Tilghman, the Tilghman Island Inn and the Bay Hundred Restaurant offer completely different takes on Chesapeake cuisine. The Tilghman Island Inn borders busy Knapps Narrows, with its near constant passage of watercraft. A day spent lounging on the waterside lawn might add years to a visitor’s life. Executive Chef David McCallum’s delightful dining room and excellent bar bring boaters to mingle with island residents, weekenders, and tourists. Casual and pet-friendly, the Inn is nonetheless elegant. Traditional Chesapeake themes receive non-traditional presentation in a lush but laid back atmosphere.

The Bay Hundred, on the opposite side of the Narrows, offers a more casual, tiki bar setting. Affable Chef Mark Chew takes full advantage of the oysters and fresh fish landed in the Narrows at nearby Dogwood Harbor.

“This area is like a hidden jewel,” said Chef Chew. “It is ready to explode. Water is magic; water brings money. A lot of people are retiring here or taking weekend places.” Many of those people enjoy quality hand-crafted foods and are willing to support local specialty producers like nearby Dogwood Farms and Davon Crest Farms on the mainland.

Rockfish Stuffed with pine nuts and sultanas
Courtesy of the Tilghman Island Inn
6 thin rockfish filets
3 cups baby spinach
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1/2 cup sultanas (golden raisins)
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
1/4 cup toasted bread crumbs
1/2 cup Prosecco sparkling wine
1/4 cup heavy cream or white wine

Sautee shallots until translucent, add garlic, cook until fragrant. Deglaze pan with Prosecco, reduce until syrupy. Add spinach, raisins, cream and cook until spinach is wilted and cream is reduced. Stir in bread crumbs and pine nuts. Top each fillet with stuffing. Roll and secure with a skewer, forming a roulade. Bring poaching liquid to a simmer; poach roulades until just done about 5 minutes.

Poaching Liquid
2 cups fish stock, clam juice or chicken stock.
2 cups Prosecco
2 thick lemon slices
1 tablespoon whole peppercorns
Bring to a boil, simmer 10 minutes

Sauce
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine and reduce by half. Plate the poached roulades with the sauce and serve.

Coming next: Oxford and the finale of our culinary tour.

Reed Hellman is a freelance writer living in Alberton, Maryland. For more of his signature culinary escapades, visit his Recipe for Adventure Website at www.reedhellmanwordsmith.com, or e-mail your questions and comments to RHWay2Go@yahoo.com. You can find all recipes in The Recipe Box on his Website.