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John Blanchette
Story By John Blanchette
John Blanchette is a freelance travel writer, television producer and owns a public relations company in Santa Monica, California
Berlin is a city in progress (a nice way of saying under total construction). Founded in the mid-13th century, it is one of Europe's oldest cities, but because of its unique history, it has now become one of its newest.
Forty percent of Berlin was destroyed by bombing and invasion at the end of World War II, and more than 150,000 civilians lost their lives. But since the dismantling of the wall in 1989, there has been a ferocious campaign of restoration, building and development.
Rising like a phoenix (or more appropriately a German eagle) from the ashes, the new Berlin is taking shape. Berliners conserved what was left from the past as best they could, while forging the modern identity. Instead of trying to re-create destroyed buildings, internationally famous architects were asked to submit plans for developing the new city. Their architecture is spectacularly modern and breathtaking.
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Despite some animosity felt by West Berliners because of the government funds and special privileges given the East over the past 10 years, the union of the two has brought the city's standard of living, the infrastructure and the buildings into seamless harmony. It is no longer possible to see a physical difference between the two sections of the city. Berlin is now one.
United Berlin is a beacon for much of Europe, with its spectacular 21st century architecture rising amid its history. The economy and tourism is rising as well. Berlin is currently challenging Rome, which is just behind London and Paris, as the largest tourist destination in Europe.
On the way into town from the airport, the cab driver -- clearly proud of his city -- pointed out (in English) important monuments and new buildings; explained the history of areas, even slowing so we could get a good view of Marlene Dietrich's birthplace (100 years ago this year); then headed through some of the many parks and along the banks of the ever-present River Spree, with long glass-covered boats moving visitors among the inner waterways of this garden city.
When we arrived at the hotel, he made a point of shaking my hand and thanking me for saving Berlin. I was affected by his earnestness and thanked him.
A kind of "Berliner daze" was starting to set in with the history, emotion and energy of new beginnings whirling about me.
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In 1999 Berlin was officially declared the new seat of government, with the Bundestag moving from Bonn to the newly rebuilt and spectacularly domed Reichstag, the parliament building of both the German Empire and the Nazi regime. The new dome, designed by English architect Sir Norman Foster, is considered by many to be a masterpiece and a focal point for the new architectural undertakings in Berlin.
The largest city in Germany, with a population of 3.5 million in an area nine times the size of Paris, Berlin is the Los Angeles of Europe, sprawling over 341 square miles. But large open areas with parks, lakes, gardens and forested areas are in abundance.
About a third of Berlin is devoted to gardens and lakes, and 140 miles of canals and rivers crisscross and surround the city. Boasting the largest number of three-star restaurants in Germany, there are more than 10,000 restaurants and bars, and many more in the summer when the city moves outdoors onto the street, parties all night and clogs the walkways with instant cafes, clubs and restaurants.
This city loves to have fun, especially in the summer. In late July, there is the annual Love Parade, a kind of latter-day hippie holiday with Mardi Gras thrown in. It attracts not only Germans but free-spirited revelers (and ravers) from all over the world. Be prepared to be outraged or engaged. It's amusing to watch German families setting up lounge chairs along the route and applauding scantily clad people on floats.
This is a city of tolerance and acceptance, what the French call "san souci," which Berliners adopted as the city motto under Frederick II, called Frederick the Great (1712-1786). Appropriately enough for Berlin, he was also a great patron of artists and philosophers.
Historically, Berlin has been very accepting of eccentricity and artistic creativity. It has long been the cultural heart of the country, with worldwide respect for its theater companies, film industry, orchestras (many consider the Berlin Philharmonic to be the finest orchestra in the world), museums and thriving university and academic community. In the city are more than 170 museums, 130 theaters, three opera houses, two concert halls, 300 galleries, 130 cinemas and three major universities. No wonder it is nicknamed "Athens on the Spree." According to a guidebook supplied by the Berlin Tourist Office, it also has Europe's oldest sanctioned and largest gay population, dating back over a 100 years.
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However, it does not have the ethnic diversity of other major European cities. The largest subculture is Turkish, comprising about 10 percent of the population, the largest community outside of Turkey.
When the Soviet Union was unsuccessful in annexing all of Berlin following World War II, it was divided in half, with England, France and the United States protecting three separate zones in the West. The Soviets tried to force the West into capitulation with the blockade of Berlin from 1948 to 1949. But this failed with the famous airlift; at its height a supply plane landed almost every minute.
On Aug. 13, 1961, East Berlin officials decided to erect a wall to keep citizens captive rather than safe and protected. This was in response to the thousands of East Berliners daily flocking to West Berlin to escape communism.
Over the years, a 100-mile wall of concrete, barbed wire and electrified fencing encircled the city. There were checkpoints and armed guardhouses. Of those who tried to reach the West through these "death zones," 170 were killed.
By 1989, with the collapse of the Soviet influence in Eastern Europe, East Germans were now able to escape the tyranny of the government through Hungary, Poland and Czechoslovakia. In response to demonstrations in both East and West Berlin, travel restrictions were repealed and East Berliners could join Peggy Lee "West of the Wall."
In the haste to destroy this symbol of separation, most of the wall was used for roads and construction. Only about a mile of it is still stands, protected with fencing to keep poachers from taking clumps of it away.
In some parts of Berlin it is possible to see where the wall once stood. A line of red brick is embedded in some of the streets.
Some enterprising Germans collected and stored massive portions of the wall to sell pieces to tourists. I paid $10 for a quarter-size piece of this history. Travelers beware: Buy your bit of history from a reputable dealer.
One way to determine if you're in the former East Berlin is to look for a traffic light with a jaunty figure in a distinctive hat. As part of unification, East Berliners demanded that their beloved little man in the traffic light, called the ampelmannchen, be preserved, forever informing pedestrians when to step and when to stop. He was one of the few warm memories East Berliners had of the Cold War.
To experience the feeling of pre-World War II Berlin, spend a night at the Wintergarten, the famous variety club of the Berlin immortalized in Christopher Isherwood's "Berlin Stories," on which "Cabaret" was based. Try to catch Max Raabe and his orchestra, who are able to re-create a 1920s and 1930s nightclub with eerie perfection, complete with singers, dancers, comedians, magicians, jugglers and period music. The original Wintergarten was destroyed in 1944 and was one of the few buildings restored, which shows how much the Germans enjoy their musical theater.
They also enjoy chocolates, especially alcohol-laced chocolates. I grew extremely fond of these sweets, especially those dispensed by Fassbender & Rausch, 60 Charlotten Strasse, in the fashionable Gendarsmentmarkt section. I was in shock at the size of the store. This was not a chocolate shop, it was a supermarket of chocolates -- a Valhalla for chocoholics.
These paradigms of confectionery art, with and without alcohol, are available as wonderful truffles, chocolate-covered marzipan, chocolates with every imaginable fruit filling, with nuts and nougat, and sugar-free.
The counter runs a good 100 feet and is filled with beautifully designed masterpieces. The server graciously put together a large box of 24 pieces for me, which was only about $10 -- the same price as a piece of the wall, but the box of chocolates had no chance of lasting for years on my mantel.
IF YOU GO
Staying there: Berlin is currently one of Europe's bargain capitals. Even the Four Seasons Hotel, one of the finest in the city, has double-occupancy rates beginning at $275 per night. Most of the top hotels range between $170 and $250 per person per night, but excellent lodgings are available for $70 to $120.
Touring there: The Berlin Welcome Card, costing about $13, offers three days' free travel on city buses and trains, plus discounts on admission to many attractions. A Three-Day Tourist Ticket ($7) offers admission to all Berlin state museums. Berlin Magazine, published in English and German, is an excellent guide to what's happening in the city, with an events calendar, restaurant and shop listings and a street map.
A not-to-be missed shopping and food destination is the huge KaDeWe Department Store, 21-24 Tauentzien Strasse, one of the five largest department stores in the world. The seventh floor is devoted to gourmet food of all kinds, basically served at cost. It offers more than 33,000 items a day, from sausages and eisbein (pigs feet) to sauerbraten and sushi, at extremely reasonable prices. It's a loss-leader to get people into the store, and it works. The place is packed for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
For travel advice: The tourist office Web site (in English and German) is www.berlin-tourism.de; the telepone is 011-49-1805-79-40-40. Office addresses: In Berlin, Europa-Center, 45 Budapester Strasse; Brandenburg Gate, South Wing, Pariser Platz. In New York, 122 E. 42nd St. New York, NY 10168, (212) 661-7200.
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