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Michigan: Touring harbor country
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Harbor Country Map courtesy Pure Michigan
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In the last couple weeks, I can't help to have noticed the proliferation of TV ads touting Michigan as a destination. I do not know if this is a national effort, but I am getting them down here in Miami. I figured, we make them a target audience in the winter, so it's only natural that we become their target audience during our summer months. To pay off their effort, I thought I would check out what Michigan has to offer.
Until about 10 years ago, my personal info on Michigan was limited mostly to Detroit as the place where cars come from (or used to); as the place that gave us Motown, my favorite music when I was growing up (now shared by jazz); and as the place where I languished for seven hours on a snow bound, packed-to-capacity Northwest Airlines plane in the field at Detroit Airport, in March of 1998, during which there was no air, no food (but plenty of drinks, because the idiot behind me was totally drunk and would not shut up). I think I passed out, and when I came to I swore I would never set foot in that airport or airline again, and so far, I have prevailed in that endeavor.
At the time, I has just started commuting regularly to South Bend, Indiana, where I was involved with a project at Notre Dame University. This gave me the opportunity to get to know the comforts of Marriott Residence Inn, which was the closest thing to a doorman building I could find for the 8-month duration of my stay. Indeed, it surpassed all doorman building amenities I had known, for they would not only do my bed but also do my groceries, which is something that no doorman, valet or concierge had, has, or ever will do for me no matter how high my maintenance is.
The other cool things about living for 8 months at the Marriott Residence Inn was free breakfast daily, which I got on my way back from the gym, (after one month’s stay, they even gave me a mug with my name on it), and the sheer pleasure that no matter how messy I was, when I returned at the end of the day, everything was in perfect order.
I would split weekends between urban fixes in Chicago,and exploring the surrounding areas. Usually this coincided with my husband’s visits, and he is big on free-wheeling-no-set-plans-this-looks-like-a good-turnoff type of tourism. Thus, I discovered a different Michigan.
One such weekend, we were actually headed to Kalamazoo, if only because it would add a notch in my husband's sudden personal quest of having spent the night in a place that was also the title of a Glenn Miller tune, an accomplishment he had already achieved in Chattanooga (alas, there was no Choo-Choo), and at the Pennsylvania Hotel in New York City (where the number is, indeed Pennsylvania 6-5000).
Michigan is peninsular, which we could relate to, being from Florida, so when we got to St. Jo, and saw Lake Michigan, one of America’s “interior oceans,” we back-burnered Kalamazoo, turned left and headed down to explore the coast.*
That’s how we stumbled upon what is known as Harbor Country. There are eight towns nestled along the southwest tip of the lake below St Joseph, in a Hamptonesque kind of way (well, one of them, Three Oaks, is out of line, just behind the others in a Quogue kind of way, to further the Hamptons reference).
Using Chicago as a starting point, Harbor Country is only about a 90 minute drive. The first town is Michiana, followed by Grand Beach, New Buffalo, Union Pier, Lakeside, Harbert and Sawyer. Everywhere is like a summer weekend postcard – verandahs, wainscoting, Adirondack chairs and wicker abound. Another great summer thing is to head to a "You-Pick" farm, where you can feast on strawberries, blueberries and other seasonal delights you pick yourself.
Antique shops kind of go with the landscape, and there are plenty to browse and make a good find.
Who knew Michigan had its own wine? There are eleven wineries, actually, and you can tour the vineyards and the tasting rooms along the Wine Trail.
There are dreamy, dune filled beaches, which I kind of miss, since one is hard-pressed to find a dune filled beach in Miami Beach. Warren Dunes State Park (12032 Red Arrow Highway), in Sawyer, is a 1,950-acre park renowned for its freshwater sand dunes. It features six miles of hiking trails, tent and RV camping and mini-cabins. Parking fee per vehicle is $6 for Michigan license plates and $8 for out-of-state plates. Phone: 269-426-4013.
If you are not the hiking and camping type (we are not), there are charming Inns and Bed & Breakfast places, a couple of which are listed below, but there are plenty to choose from, in every price point, if you go to the Harbor Country website at left.
WHITE RABBIT INN BED & BREAKFAST
A picturesque little bed and breakfast with only eight guest rooms, each with private ground-level entrances. There are six guest rooms with whirlpool baths, two with gas fireplaces, and all contain rustic furniture and private baths. There are also two private deluxe knotty pine cabins with a full kitchen that includes woodburning stove, and an outdoor hot tub. A hearty continental buffet is available each morning in the lodge (pets welcome). 14634 Red Arrow Highway Lakeside, Michigan 49116-0370 Phone: 269-469-4620 Toll-free: 800-967-2224 WhiteRabbitInn.com
SANDPIPER INN
Voted by frequent inn travelers as "Best on the waterfront throughout North America" for Arrington's Inn Traveler 2006 Book of Lists, it features a private beach on Lake Michigan, verandah with spectacular views and a full breakfast. 16136 Lakeview Ave. Union Pier, MI 49129 Phone: 269-469-1146 Toll-free: 800-351-2080 SandPiperInn.net
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