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Alone on Kauai's Kalalau Trail
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The first view of the NaPali Coast
The Kalalau Trail, which navigates a portion of Kauai’s fabled Na Pali Coast, is arguably the Hawaiian Islands finest and most quintessential trail. Your Examiner finds it’s also a wonderful excursion for the temporarily semi-retired (also known as unemployed.) The trail lies literally at the end of the road on the northwestern shore of the Garden Isle of Kauai. It’s consider a strenuous hike just to do the first two miles to Hanakapa’ai Beach, extra tough to trudge an additional 2 miles to Hanakapi’ai Falls and a death march to do the entire length of 11 miles one-way ending at Kalalau Beach. www.kalalautrail.com
Yet literally thousands of experienced hikers and backpackers, mixed with plenty of novices and a fair sprinkling of folks who quite simply appear to have no business on the route at all (lack of proper footwear, no water, etc.) make the trek annually. This trail undoubtedly satisfies the most romantic vision of Hawaii, with towering sea cliffs and spires, shear drop-offs into an impossibly turquoise and roiling Pacific Ocean, waterfalls and streams and vegetation so thick one is left to wonder about the hearty souls who first carved the Kalalau.
My latest visit to the trail begins with a short early morning flight to Lihue from Honolulu and the relatively quick and easy drive to Ha’ena State Park past Hanalei town and the swank Princeville Resort. http://www.hawaiistateparks.org/hiking/kauai/index.cfm?hike_id=13
The parking situation at Ha’ena Beach is generally tight, but there’s an overflow lot a bit further back toward Hanalei. A new restroom and showers and a general spiffing up of the area have added a lot to the curb appeal.
Whether it is a function of a serious downturn in tourism in Hawaii, the heavy rain that greeted the day or mere providence, my 6th hike on the Kalalau was far and away the most serene and peaceful, because for most of the day there was not another being in sight.
Making the final downhill swing to the stream crossing right above Hanakapi’ai Beach I finally encounter one couple headed back to their car and perhaps a refreshing swim off reef protected Ke’e beach at Ha’ena. It’s also a great place to watch spectacular sunsets over the Na Pali Coast. There are lots of warning signs about the dangers of entering the rough surf at Hanakapi’ai and signs warning not to cross the stream in high water. Fortunately by the time your Examiner reaches the stream crossing the rain has ended, and testing depth with my trusty hiking stick I judge it to be pretty safe. Of course, like usual I failed to bring my slippers (Hawaiian for flip-flops), but discovered long ago that you don’t want to cross these streams without something on your feet. Some of you may not like the idea of getting your socks and boots soaking wet, but on this trail, even on a dry day you’re probably going to get drenched from head to toe anyway due to the high humidity, your physical exertion and hot temperatures. Plus putting up with wet boots and socks is certainly preferable to slipping into the fast moving water, banging off boulders and perhaps getting swept downstream and into the rolling surf at the beach.
After crossing Hanakapi’ai Stream, the trail to Hanakapi’ai Valley and Falls heads inland and the remaining 9 miles of the Kalalau Trail splits and marches on toward a seemingly never ending series of climbs up one side of a valley and down another.
Like all of the Kalalau Trail system, the Hanakapi’ai Valley segment is often wet and sloshy, but generally is not as steep as the ocean side trail. You pass through a large bamboo forest (actually an invasive species in Hawaii) and cross Hanakapi’ai Stream at least one more time. At a high point, close to the 2 mile mark you get your first glimpse of the waterfall tumbling down a cliff: depending on the recency of rains a narrow ribbon or on this day a full-fledged broad and powerful fall. Since the stream was running so high and since I’d been to the base of the fall previously I elected not to navigate the last short segment of the trail that involves walking on the slick rock adjacent to the stream. It seemed like it could be a sure-fire way to take a tumble into the fast moving water. Instead a multitude of fairly protected and deep swimming holes below provide a quick cool down before lunch. On the way back down the valley I pass the 2nd couple of the day headed to the falls. Had I not encountered them their presence would have been known by the series of Starburst candy wrappers they discarded on the trail. Either they were doing their best Hansel and Gretel imitation or are completely oblivious to what should be preserving the pristine nature of this place; mom and dad didn’t teach them that “if you pack it in, pack it out.” In addition to the Starburst rubbish I filled a bag with a collection of discarded clothing and those awful one-use plastic water bottles. Yuk!
By the time I cross Hanakapi’ai Stream a final time above the beach, I begin to see more and more hikers: most of them headed to the beach. A few are actually walking the rough, rocky, slippery, steep and muddy trail barefooted. God bless ‘em.
So what kind of physical shape should you be in to enjoy this trail fully? Reasonably good , as there is constant uphill and downhill movement and footing can be tricky due to the nearly constant water on the trail, sharp rocks and plentiful roots. A walking stick or trekking poles are great aides.
Unlike many similar trails on the mainland though, altitude is not a factor. http://www.kauaiexplorer.com/hiking_kauai/kalalau_hike.php
One of the best parts of “A Day Alone on the Kalalau” is reaching your vehicle at Ka’ena Beach State Park. Ke’e Beach is lifeguard protected and has a sandy bottom at ocean’s edge that extends out quite far to a reef teeming with colorful tropical fish. Remember not to touch or walk on the reef as it may look like rock but it is living coral. It is a fun and fitting end to a fun and fit day on Kauai’s Na Pali Coast. Enjoy
