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Restaurant review: Crush in Belvedere Square
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I have a two-year old. One with a lot of energy, and a very loud voice. As a result - and I know you're all going to thank me for this - I rarely get to try any restaurants while they're still new. Crush, in Belvedere Square, opened in mid-August, so I don't know if it really qualifies as brand new, but it's still pretty new to me.
So, when Cooper (my husband) and I went to dinner at Crush last Tuesday night, I walked through the doors without too many expectations. Oh, I'd done some homework - I read Elizabeth Large's review in the Sun, the minx's opening night recap, and the Chowhound discussion on the place. They'd all reported good things. But I still had to see for myself.
First, a little background. Crush opened in the space that formerly housed Taste, a restaurant that I really wanted to like, but just never could. The space was super cool and the menu sounded good, but it never quite delivered, so it felt overpriced. Add that to not-so-good service, and Taste was just a disappointment. I live about five minutes away from Belvedere Square, and I'd love a decent, moderately upscale restaurant in the neighborhood, so I was doubly disappointed.
But then, I was also doubly excited to hear that Daniel Chaustit, formerly of Christopher Daniel in Timonium, was opening a new spot in the empty Taste building. I haven't been to Christopher Daniel personally, but I hear good things both from friends and from my mother-in-law, so I'm guessing it's pretty good.
Fortunately, the first thing I noticed when we walked into Crush was that Chaustit hadn't messed with the Taste decor in any way, shape or form. The design of the space was always very cool, with a bar that feels trendy but not intimidating and a crazy use of rope that somehow makes nautical feel hip. Plus, there's a private-ish room downstairs that's perfect for a party.
On Tuesday night around 7:30, the restaurant was fairly full, and the crowd was a little bit older, but mixed. There were definitely some business dinners around the place, as well as a couple of "ladies' night out" tables. It was a Tuesday, after all. But considering the day (and the economy), the level of activity was encouraging.
We settled in with a drink and fantastic warm focaccia with olive oil, then ordered a very reasonably priced bottle of Malbec. The wine list leans American (which isn't really our thing) but it's interesting and easy to navigate and there are more than a few bottles under $30. I definitely like that.
Our appetizers were the highlight of the meal. Cooper had a "bacon and egg" dish - rich risotto with bacon and mushrooms (awesome earthiness!) topped with a poached duck egg. He really loved it, and my bite was fantastic and flavorful, but it was also super rich and filling.
I'd read such good things about the cornmeal crusted oysters that I couldn't not order them - and I'm glad I did. They came perfectly, lightly crusted and just cooked. The sweetness of the oyster was an amazing complement for the spicy, grainy mustard sauce on the plate. In fact, I can't believe I've never considered that combination before. I loved them.
Our entrees were a little less interesting, though still good. Cooper had a NY strip - cooked correctly, flavored nicely - with (unsurprisingly) rich, delicious lobster mac and cheese. I had a similarly correct filet with a rich port wine reduction and bleu cheese scalloped potatoes. I like bleu cheese and I love carb-loading, so the potatoes were great with me. Both entrees were good, but not particularly exciting.
The dessert menu is similarly meh. Our dense chocolate cake was nice, but we probably could've done without it.
Service was good. Our waitress was friendly but not overly so and attentive without hovering. Our only complaint was that the gap between appetizers and entrees was a little long, but our wine glasses were kept full and we had a nice chat, so we didn't mind. (I'm guessing this would be a bigger deal on a (bad) first date. On a "we've been married for four years" Tuesday night, not so big.) Oh, and our table was right next to a server station, and the station's drawer repeatedly popped out and hit Cooper's chair. Not so frequently that it was terribly annoying, but not infrequently, either.
Overall, though, it was a good experience and we'd definitely go back. It's not crazy experimental food and Crush certainly won't win any "trendiest restaurant" awards, but it's very good food, good service and a nice atmosphere. The Chowhound commenter kelarry sums up my feelings on Crush, saying, "City folk may find the menu a bit pedestrian, but it has all the Towsonites fav. things- ie. bacon wrapped scallops, salmon, creme brulee."
And that's not such a bad thing.
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