Luxury in Paris: a tale of three hotels (Part 2 Saint Lazare)

November 3, 10:32 PMRaleigh International Travel ExaminerJS Fletcher

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                Concorde Saint Lazare hotel. Photo courtesy Concorde Saint-Lazare.

 By Kathy M. Newbern and J.S. Fletcher © 2009

We start out our stay in the heart of the Right Bank in one of the city’s original “grand hotels,” that is still considered a symbol of flamboyant Paris.

From the majestic Haussmannian architecture outside, stepping into the lobby of the Concorde Saint-Lazare hotel is a head-turner. This impressive soaring entrance retains the Baroque elements of its 1889 launch — mirrors, bronze and crystal chandeliers and marble pillars. (Photo right and lower right courtesy Saint-Lazare hotel.)

Cute story: Looking up, our eyes follow the line of original stenciling where cherubs seem to hold up the mezzanine level high above when we spot one of them with his back to us, his round tushy in full view. Supposedly, this is the artist’s snub saying he wasn’t paid enough for his fine work.

The new furniture in the lobby is the work of the famous designer Hierro, and it compliments the paintings and sculptures specially commissioned from artist Charles Joseph Lameire perfectly fusing the Eiffel-inspired style of the building's origins with a contemporary edge — seamlessly representing the modern yet historic atmosphere of the hotel.

The Concorde Saint-Lazare's history dates to the end of the 19th century when Paris was thriving with a succession of Universal Expos. The period also marked the end of a modernization policy whose best achievements still to this day impress tourists from the world, us included: Baron Haussmann’s Boulevards, the Opera Garnier and, of course, the Eiffel Tower.

That’s the context in which the Concorde Saint-Lazare – called the Grand Hotel Terminus at the time — came to be built in a record 15 months by architect Juste Lich and inaugurated on May 7th, 1889, in time for the Universal Expo.

The hotel became the talk of the town as soon as it opened. Travelers arriving in Saint-Lazare train station had direct hotel access via a 60-foot overpass. This is the same train station where travelers back then reached Normandy’s harbors to set off on their journeys of world discovery. (Photo left, JS Fletcher)

Today the station is a main hub of trains arriving from all across Europe. A steady stream of tourists, locals, and business people constantly flow in and out of Paris through this terminal.

When Concorde Saint-Lazare opened, it had an astounding 500 rooms (there are 266 today) and all the latest innovations including electricity and telephones. It was said of this elegant landmark that it was worth the trip to Paris just to see it. (Photo left of junior suite courtesy Saint-Lazare.)

And its location is perfect for exploring. We eagerly rushed out and delighted in finding the nearby Tuileries Gardens an ample playground, especially pertaining to the carnival set up along its edge.

Tuileries, the most central park in Paris, stretches from along the Seine River right bank to the Louvre museum and on to the Arc de Triomphe. The Tuileries Palace was located here. King Louis XIV resided here while Versailles was being built. Marie-Antoinette was a later resident.

Our attention first focused on the stately shrubs, walkways, flowers and statues, but then turned to the carnival, where we took a romantic ride on the huge Ferris wheel. Our views of the city, particularly Sacre Coeur and the Louvre, were spectacular, which you will see in the slideshow below. (Photo JS Fletcher)

As the evening sun bathed us in its warm glow, we strolled the streets before heading back to the Concorde Saint-Lazare to enjoy our suite and set our plans for the next day.

Here's a previous story about the Top-10 sites to see in Paris according to Marina de Frishing, senior sales manager for several hotels in Paris.

If you want a little taste of what it’s like to be in Paris, take an armchair trip in one of YourNovel’s eBooks: Two Paris Short Stories, personalized to make you the star.

We will be reporting on our trip in a series of articles accompanied by slideshows designed to give you a look at what we saw and did. This is Part 2 of the series. You can sign up for alerts to follow along, or go to Part 1 to start at the beginning or go to Part 3, Lunch at the Lutetia.

International Travel Examiner J.S. Fletcher and spouse, Kathy M. Newbern, report on luxury destinations, spas and cruising around the globe. They are award-winning members of the Society of American Travel Writers and operate YourNovel.com, their personalized romance novel business.