Oktoberfest, Wisconsin, and Wine 102: Cheese curds

October 17, 3:47 PMChicago Wine Pairing ExaminerGina Signorella

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Orange, cheddar curds are my favorite.
Courtesy of www.cheezy-o-cheese.com/ cheese-curd

After bratwurst, Wisconsin is synomous with some other special wisconsin induldgence.

Squeaky cheese.  The freshest curds will squeak when eaten.  My first time meeting a curd I was in college in Milwaukee, and one of my roommates was dating a guy who worked at the Colby Cheese factory, the source of this much-revered Wisconsin staple.

All I could think of was the "curds and whey" of fables, and while it sounded gross hearing it as a kid, it still did.  I kept my distance from these oddly shaped cheese bites.

But many a trip to visit friends up North at a cabin in Shawano, west of Green Bay, teased me into trying them.  I now hail the cheese curd like a native. 

I stopped in a gas station that heralded  "Fresh curds."  It was a Tuesday.  When I didn't see them, I asked the cashier where they might be hiding.  "We don't have any, not until Thursday," when no doubt, one of the local dairy farmers from Cecil or Bonduel would drop off a fresh, squeaky load.

I prefer the orange curds -- they actually seem more natural here in cheeseland, where Colby and Cheddar are masters (although Wisconsin is now doing many artisan delights, like blue cheeses and some Italian varieties).  They have a bit more bite than the white curds, in terms of flavor burst, like eating a concentrated Starburst candy made of cheese. 

I like a fruitier red wine with Cheese, in much the same way that grapes and other fruits are served with cheese.  Sterling Merlot is a jammy, fruity wine that gives the curds equal weight in terms of flavor punch and richness.   For something lighter, try a Pinot like Castle Rock. Both of these wines are inexpensive and easy to find, and the casualness of curds don't demand anything fancy.

Or if you like the imports, try a Chianti, for the bright cherry fruit it'll bring.

So squeak and sip and savor your curds with wine.  They are available at Trader Joe's locally, or order them up from the source at wisconsinmade.com. 

Next time we move from Wisconsin appetizer, to some main courses.

For more info: 

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/432022

http://www.wisconsinmade.com/gourmet-food-gifts-cheese-dairy-cheese-curds.aspx