Pairing Exotic Cuisine from Radisson St Martin With Wine

October 16, 8:58 PMNY Wine Pairing ExaminerMarisa D'vari

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Have you noticed that hotel chefs … rather, high-end resort hotel chefs, are all the rage? Their responsibilities are even heavier than those of their restaurant-based colleagues, as they must set a tone with the cuisine that also matches that of the hotel. In many high-end hotels, the chef is also responsible for creating room service menus, and the menus for all of the resort’s other restaurants.

So on a rainy, freezing night in Manhattan, wouldn’t it be lovely to fantasize about dinner in a luxurious resort on the French Caribbean island of St Martin? What would you have? Lobster? And what kind of wine would you pair it with …. Perhaps a Laboure-Roi Cuvee Vieille Vigne Chablis, known for its crisp taste with a note of citrus and orange zest?

Well fantasy became reality on October 15, when Chef Bruo Brazier, the Executive Chef at Radisson St Martin Resort, Marina & Spa created a contemporary French Caribbean meal at the James Beard House in New York City. The evening began as an attractive, well-dressed crowd entered the historic home of one of America’s culinary masters and gathered to taste hors d’oeuvres such as Foie Gras with Tamarind Chutney, Red Bell Pepper and Olivada Cakes, Black Sesame Battered Shrimp with Wasabi Oil, and Mojito Espuma Verinnes, all washed down with Champagne Pommery Brut Royal NV, a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that is known for its elegance, freshness, finesse and a small note of red fruit.

The first course of Flame-Seared Tuna with Cantaloupe Caviar and Tropical Fruit Meli-melo was paired with Pinot Gris Reserve Gustave Lorentz, while the Goat Cheese Tarte with Grilled Mediterranean Vegetables, Truffle Oil and Sun Dried Tomato Tapenade was served with Joseph Mellot Le Troncsec Pouiily Fume.

Now the most impressive dish of the evening – for me – was not just the “lobster” but Red Snapper and Lobster en Papillotte (cooked inside a clear material to retain moistness) with Green Papaya. Skilled, well dressed waiters came around and snipped the end of papillotte , creating a exciting cloud of steam. The last course, Grilled Beef Filet Rossini with Summer Truffle and Pomme Maxim, was excellently paired with Frank Phelan Saint-Estephe, a unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Now you’re probably wondering about dessert … it was Vanilla mousse with fennel and preserved ginger, mango Napoleon, meringue with raspberry, chocolate ganache and coconut sherbet, paired with Champagne Pommery Cuvee Louise Rose.

So who is Bruno Brazier, you might wonder, and how did he come to be invited to the prestigious Beard House and serve as executive chef for such a swank resort? Chef Brazier (who comes from a long lineage of chefs) began his career in Burgundy near Chablis at Auberge and later at the Michelin-starred Clos Longchamps and Relais des Sevres. After joining Le Meridien Hotel in Paris, he held executive chef positions in Syria, Egypt, Guadeloupe and Newport Beach, California.

Now that I’ve had a taste of Brazier’s cuisine, I can’t wait to visit the Radisson  resort in St. Martin. This is a AAA Four Diamond Radisson that just underwent a $80 million transformation, and is located at Anse Marcel – one of the best-preserved and most secluded coves on the French side of St Martin.

You can find out more about the Radisson St. Martin here