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Salta road trip, Part 4: San Antonio de los Cobres
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Welcome to San Antonio de los Cobres - Meghan Zichelli
Continued from Part 3
Since Salta was not far from Colonel Moldes and we had to pass it anyway, we figured it was a good idea to make a quick stop to exchange money, stop at a Farmacity, and visit the tourist's office; all things that are easier to do in the main city than the small towns along the way. We made the whole stop a quick one because we had the goal of getting to San Antonio de los Cobres by sunset.
San Antonio de los Cobres is one of the last stops of the Tren a las Nubes, Train to the Clouds, a train service starting in Salta a few days a week and climbing up in elevation all day. Since we had rented a car we didn't experience the train, but we did drive along the tracks. We were glad to have a car and be able to do the ride on our own schedule, rather than on the train which takes up 15 hours of the day.
Viaducto La Polvorillo - MZ
After a couple hours of mountain driving we pulled up to San Antonio de los Cobres and stopped at the tourist office which was right at the entrance to town. The employee recommended a place to stay for the night and told us how to get to the Viaducto La Polvorillo, the bridge about 40 minutes north which is the last stop of the Train to the Clouds. We briefly checked out the recommended hostel and approved. Heat, hote water, room for 4, breakfast in the morning, and kitchen to cook dinner, all at AR$40/person or less? Check.
It was starting to get dark so we quickly continued driving to the base of the massive bridge. Since the train was not running that day there was no one around except for an elderly woman who lives at the base of the bridge next to a shop full of handmade artisan crafts. She lives there with her niece and cousin, who all wait for the tourists to come from the train and purchase gifts from their shop. There is nothing else around except for their shop and small home. She saw our car and asked if we could drive her back into the town of San Antonio to her family's home. We had room so said of course. After some pictures of the bridge we all climbed in to the warm car to head back. We found out that normally Juana, our new friend, walks into town which is a 3 hour walk. We couldn't believe it and were happy to help her out on this cold night.
San Antonio de los Cobres - MZ
Settling into our home for the night, Casa Hospedaje, we realized this was one of the nicer places we had stayed. The beds were comfortable and plush, with several blankets each. The bathroom was large with good water pressure in the shower. The heat turned out to be broken, but they brought in a large space heater for us. We went to a local grocer and bought makings for pasta, including some beef for the sauce, and bread. With one of our expensive bottles of wine left from Molinos, we made a complete meal in the small hostel.
The next morning, after another breakfast of rolls, dulce de leche, coffee (with bags, not fresh), tea, and tang, we realized that we hadn't adjusted to the high altitude just yet. Out of breath just from getting ready, we were looking forward to some fresh air. With no more sightseeing to see here, we headed to Purmamarca, looking forward to stopping at the salt flats along the way!
Next stop: Part 5: Purmamarca and Humahuaca
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