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Peche- A sinfully delightful absinthe bar and restaurant in the Fourth Street district
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Russell, bar manager at Peche, and the Green Fairy
Russell, the bar manager at Peche, will not make you a Cosmo on principle. He feels that Vodka is basically a flavorless liquor and if you are going to have a drink, you should taste it and it should be an experience worth noting (reflective of his views, vodka only occupies about 1/20th of the shelf space populated by the various liquors and spirits). Peche starts off right with a very hip locale; it occupies the former space of Malaga (which has moved over to 2nd Street). It possesses a lengthy wooden bar and loungy couches set against tall windows- perfect for observing the debauchery of Cedar Street next door. You feel as though you are thrown back in time to a 19th century Parisian lounge full of roués and courtesans, complete with ambient lighting, ornate antique chandeliers and gilded absinthe fountains. One feels the ghost of Oscar Wilde at the bar with you, pensively sipping a Pernod (the granddaddy of absinthe) or perhaps Earnest Hemingway, quaffing a “Death in the Afternoon”- absinthe prepared with champagne instead of the usual cold water.
The Green Fairy is the main attraction at Peche. It is a drink with an incredibly fun and decadent ritual; water drips from the ornate absinthe fountain onto a sugar cube which is nestled on an intricate absinthe spoon; it’s like taking a trip back in time for a indulgent bohemian history lesson. Absinthe gets its distinctive flavor from a distillation of three items: Anise, fennel and wormwood (Artemisia absinthium, which is a plant from the daisy family) and the resulting cloudy liquid is called louche, which, despite the water, is twice as strong as a regular cocktail. The most interesting thing about sipping this fire water is there is no alcohol burn, owing to the body of the herbs- they hide the heat. Upon first sip, the absinthe seems like a glass of warm licorice water (not something most people would be excited about, admittedly), but as it sits it develops a very unique, layered flavor. A complex delicacy arises as it plays on the tongue- it has an herbaceous, robust yet dainty mouth feel. It is truly a unique and interesting libation experience; it tastes like nothing else.
If you aren’t ready to be introduced to the Green Fairy, try a cocktail made from gin- not the traditional London dry; try one with Boomsma which is aged in oak or Bols Genever that tastes a bit smoky, like bourbon. The bartenders at Peche will work with you to find something you like- something different. If you are feeling really adventurous, have Russell shake you up one of his original creations- try the “Devil’s Cocktail”-a martini flavored with Angostura bitters, St-Germain (an elderberry liquor), house made lemonchello, lime, honey and a fresh jalapeno on the rim of the glass, for a little kick. It is spicy, refreshing and unexpected (and ladies- Russell is single).
The French cuisine offered is quite suitable for the bon vivant; choose from a charcuterie plate to crab tartine to frog’s legs. A police officer, who was keeping an eye on the goings on at Cedar Street, mentioned that he had tried the Coq Au Vin-and that it was delicieux.
Visit Peche’s website to see the menu and a drink list www.pecheaustin.com
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