Japanese Cream Puffs, or Shu Kurumu

November 3, 1:43 PMNY Ethnic Food ExaminerAimée Kligman

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The Japanese have taken the cream puff, or chou à la creme, and turned it into magic.  They called them "Shu", but that's fine. My taste buds will accept anything they decide to call it, because I was never an avid fan of cream puffs, the way we know them, extending all the way to éclairs. 

Perhaps it is the feather light dough quality of this puff, or the fact that they do not stuff it with vanilla pudding which makes the difference. There is real whipped cream in them those puffs! And a few bits of vanilla bean as well. I am told this has developed in nothing short of a cult on the West Coast, where I lived for a couple of years.

One morning, this summer, I was on my way to Manhattan, via the # 7 train in Flushing. I was visiting a friend whose appreciation for fine food is limitless. I didn't want to bring flowers, and as I walked, I was able to distinguish Japanese characters on a small shop under the tracks of the Long Island Railroad.  There are very specific differences between Japanese, Korean and Chinese characters.  Then I saw the puffs, and was encouraged by the fact that they were not filled with cream, not yet anyway. I ordered half a dozen, and watched as the man behind the counter stuffed them, powdered them with confectioner's sugar and placed them in a box for me. The smell was tantalizing. And later, I found the taste ethereal. 

Before I send you on a wild goose chase, please visit Beard Papa's website. They have four locations in New York, so you'll never be left wanting. In Queens, where I still think the best of anything Asian is to be found, you can try:

Sakuraya Japanese Cream Puff (very highly rated, but was the recipient of 8 inspection violations in July 2008)

11319 14th Rd, Flushing, NY 11356 - (718) 888-7742

Of course, I don't remember the name of the shop that got me hooked on these, but it is located on Main Street in Flushing, on the west side of the street, immediately under the train overpass. Can't miss it. When I go back, I will make a point of noting the name, and inserting it in this post.