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All eyes on 2009 pre-fall collections
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Carolina Herrera pre-fall 2009;
Source: Style.com
Fashion seems to be on speed as designers roll out their pre-fall collections ... less than 8 weeks away from the debut of the fall collections here in New York. They are taking their cues from the economy and looking to beef up revenue in a climate of dwindling sales. The collections maybe a glimpse of what is to come in February. Black made a compelling comeback this season and it is even heavier in the 09 collections.
Fashionologie.com noted that “28 of the 31 front guests wore black” at the Calvin Klein pre-fall presentation. But also quoted Eric Wilson as saying black is “fashion’s version of comfort food" – a clever observation but I think not. It is more a sign of the times rather than a lazy indulgence.
As the recession takes a toll and The Great Depression is referenced again, and again, designers look for inspiration from the fashions of the post Depression era. Designers have sobered their collections to include less accessories and fuss and more separates to mix and match. The Carolina Herrera collection offered a somber and conservative line for a period when all will be buckling down.
Versace seemed to have wittingly toned down the collection but managed to retain that “Versace” luxeness … with a lot less. Belts and buckles, brooches and leather gloves were dropped from the pre-fall line. The platform pumps remain – I am so very thankful.
Isaac Mizrahi tapped into the 40s with drapy designs that provide comfort and function rather than portraying excess and over-indulgence. Zac Posen portrayed his influence more directly presenting more of the flirty styles of the 40s with girly skirts and blushing cocktail dresses.
Versace pre-fall 2009;
Courtesy of Versace
Designers are focusing on the essentials of their brand. Rachel Roy, who presented a strong collection, may not have presented a dark collection but there is a sense of awareness of the current tone. The line is without the fussy details and presents easy pieces, a direction we are seeing in most the collections.
Carmen Marc Valvo has already announced that he will not give a runway presentation this February. He may have a soiree where models will be dressed in the fall collection. Vera Wang has also pulled her show from the usual tent location, stating that she will have a much smaller presentation in her SoHo boutique. Betsey Johnson is the third designer to follow in these footsteps. She is undecided on her venue but her presentation will not be held at Bryant Park as well. The fashion community is definitely "participating" in the recession.
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Isaac Mizrahi pre-fall 2009;
Source: Style.com
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