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Road Trips: Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It’s slightly ironic that the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World were all man-made objects, as if Gaia in all her glory was seemingly incapable of providing wonders as stunning as the Hanging Gardens of Babylon or the Colossus of Rhodes. The Grand Canyon is a natural wonder which was five million years in the making. Its size and scale, up to 16 miles wide, 277 miles long and covering 1900 square miles; growing year by year as the mighty Colorado River and natural erosion carved through a mile deep strata of sandstone and limestone to create the extraordinary vistas that you see before you today. During his exploration of the Colorado River in 1869, the first successful expedition to travel the length of the river, John Wesley Powell noted in his journal, “The glories and the beauties of form, color, and sound unite in the Grand Canyon - forms unrivaled even by the mountains, colors that vie with sunsets, and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling raindrop, from cataract to bubbling fountain.” This perhaps explains why the Grand Canyon was named a World Heritage Site in 1979.

 

Grand Canyon National Park transitioned from a simple Forest Reserve in 1893 to fully fledged National Park in 1919. It is comprised of the North Rim, the South Rim and the Inner Canyon. Traditionally the South Rim, open year round, receives considerably more visitors than its northern neighbor which is only open from mid-May to October. The 215 mile drive to the North Rim takes five hours or you can take a 21 mile “rim to rim” hike starting on the South Kaibab Trail passing Cedar Ridge and Skeleton point and descending seven miles into the canyon before you reach, and cross, the Colorado River via the Kaibab Suspension Bridge. Continue on to the Phantom Ranch, opened in 1922, and then ascend to the North Rim on the North Kaibab Trail.

The North Rim, on the Kaibab Plateau, is approximately 8,000 feet above sea level (9,200 feet at the highest point). It is heavily forested with Aspen, Spruce, Firs and Ponderosa Pines which periodically give way to lush green alpine meadows. This is part of the 1.6 million acres collectively known as the Kaibab National Forest. There are numerous opportunities to see Mule Deer and Elk, less so for the rare Kaibab Squirrel, but with 250 species of birds and 70 species of mammals there is a strong possibility that you will see some form of wildlife in the park during your visit. You enter the park through the North Rim Entrance on Highway 87 and can continue to the Grand Canyon Lodge at the southern most point. There are four main overlooks, Bright Angel Point, Point Imperial, Cape Royal and Point Sublime. These viewpoints are just as dramatic as those on the South Rim. Though there are fewer views of the Colorado River and into the canyon depths, there are stunning views of the side canyons and features like the 60 foot high arch called Angel’s Window. The easiest viewpoint to get to is the 0.25 mile paved trail at Bright Angel Point. This was another of the features of the Canyon named by Powell during his 1869 expedition, “The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in symbols of speech, nor by speech itself. The resources of the graphic art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features. Language and illustration combined must fail.” (John Wesley Powell). There are a number of smaller trails in this area of the park, known as the Transept, including the Ken Patrick, Uncle Jim Trails and the North Kaibab Trail which descends into the canyon from this point.

 

Enter the South Rim on Highway 64 and head towards the South Rim Entrance. If this is your first visit to the Grand Canyon be sure to stop at the 488 seat National Geographic IMAX Theater in Tusayan and watch the 34 minute “Grand Canyon-The Hidden Secrets” movie on the sixty foot high screen. Continue on to Mather Point, three miles from the South Entrance, to get your first view of the Canyon or stop further on at the Yavapai Point Observation Station. A new museum opened here in 2007 which focuses on the geological history of the Grand Canyon.

 

You can continue your scenic drive on the South Rim passing the Shrine of the Ages until you arrive in Grand Canyon Village.  From this point, you can retrace your steps by taking the 23 mile East Rim drive from Grand Canyon Village via Yaki, Grandview, Moran and Navajo Points to Desert View or you can take the shuttle along the seven mile West Rim Drive from Grand Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest. Cars are not allowed on the Hermits Rest route to protect the environment from smog. However, there is a special program for disabled drivers or passengers (ask a Ranger about the accessibility program). Free shuttle buses operate from sunrise to sunset on four different routes, or you can walk on the Rim Trail or cycle on the Greenway Trail. There are numerous free Ranger guided hikes, nature walks and presentations. Information can be found in the Grand Canyon Guide that you will receive at the Entrance Station. If you prefer the self-guided options, you can visit the six information centers and museums that are located on the South Rim, including the Kolb Studio and the Tusayan Ruin & Museum.

It goes without saying that the views from the South Rim defy description. The Grand Canyon’s fame spread after Garcia Lopez de Cardenas first set eyes on it in 1540. Suffice it to say, that there are few sights in the world that so demonstrably convey the power of time, wind, water and erosion, as well as humanity’s utter lack of significance when compared to the two billion year history of this natural phenomenon. President Theodore Roosevelt, a prime mover in the establishment of the National Park, once said of the Grand Canyon, “Leave it as it is…Keep it…as the one great sight which every American…should see.” Indeed.

Other ways to measure the scale and beauty of the Canyon include river rafting, taking a mule ride, a jeep tour, an ATV tour, or an aerial tour in a fixed wing or rotary wing aircraft. Alternatively, you can take the 65 mile, two hour, trip from Williams to The Canyon on the Grand Canyon Railway.

There are a number of places you can stay. Inside the park there is Trailer Village on the South Rim next to Mather Campground (full hookups) and Camper Village one mile outside the south entrance (full hookups). If you intend to camp within the National Park be sure to make your reservations well in advance as these locations fill very quickly. In Williams, there is Railside RV Ranch and there is also a brand new Grand Canyon KOA on Highway 64 about 50 minutes from the South Rim Entrance. There are 16 RV sites with full hookups (50 amp) and 37 sites with water and electric (30 amp). When the KOA is completed it will have the full selection of amenities including a club house, cabins, restrooms, dump station, laundry, pet area and propane. There is also the Circle Pines KOA in Williams. Be sure that you know which one you are making reservations at!

A great place to stop with the family outside the park is the Grand Canyon Deer Farm & Petting Zoo, eight miles east of Williams, who have a wonderful selection of Fallow Deer, Reindeer, Wallabies, Llamas and cute little Marmosets. If you purchase food to feed the Deer, buy the bucket size as the deer are very persistent and know exactly where you will enter and exit the tour!

Grand Canyon National Park Map (PDF)  | Grand Canyon National Park, PO Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 | Grand Canyon Association P.O. Box, 399 Grand Canyon, AZ 86023  | Grand Canyon/Williams KOA, 5333 North Arizona Highway 64, Williams, AZ 86046.Tel: 1 (928) 635-2307

 

 

 © Copyright 2009 Julian L. Gothard. Protected pursuant to the provisions of the Berne Convention. All rights reserved.

 

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