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Road Trips: Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada

The vivid red hued sandstone cliffs that you see before you were thrust upwards through the floor of the Mojave Desert, around 150 million years ago, by subterranean pressures beyond imagining. Whilst the Petroglyphs carved by stone knives on the rock’s weathered surface bear silent testament to the passing of the ancient “Anasazi” people some 3,000 years before. The oppressive early morning heat envelops you like a blanket and it’s only 100 degrees but as the sun reaches its azimuth you know the temperature will rise to a scorching 120 degrees. The heat haze shimmers threateningly on the sandy surface of this seemingly barren and lifeless desert. The sun bleached bones of previous visitors lie scattered on the desert floor. There will be time to contemplate the folly of my hyperbole later, welcome to Nevada’s Valley of Fire!

The Valley of Fire, established in 1935, covers 35,000 acres and is Nevada’s oldest state park. To the casual observer the valley’s stark landscape and sweltering 120 degree summer heat give the impression of a park devoid of life. Nothing could be further from the truth. In order to avoid the stifling heat, the animals in the valley are predominantly nocturnal. The Valley of Fire is home to Gila Monsters, Kit Fox, Coyotes, Bobcats, the white-tailed Antelope Squirrel, snakes of all varieties including the Sidewinder and Mojave Green Rattlesnake; and an assortment of other rodents and reptiles. However, you may be lucky and see Desert Bighorn Sheep and the Desert Tortoise (an endangered species) during the day. Water is scarce in the park as the average rainfall here is just four inches per year. Yet there are plants that are only found in this particular region of Nevada, like the Utah Yucca. Numerous other succulents abound such as Cholla and Beavertail Cacti along with hardy perennials like the Desert Holly saltbush. Nature has somehow found a way to harness the harshest of elements and work in cooperation with them to create a thriving ecosystem in a stunningly beautiful location.

Both the canyon known as Mouse’s Tank and also Atlatl Rock bear the marks of the Anasazi. Some believe that the primitive hieroglyphics carved on these rust colored rocks could unlock the riddle of the disappearance of this long vanished race. Others believe that the carvings are nothing more than the ancient graffiti of bored hunter-gatherers. You can take the stairway up Atlatl rock and view the carvings for yourself. There is also a two mile dirt road loop trail near Atlatl rock with some great views across the desert which will take you to Arch Rock and Piano Rock. Then, you can swing back heading east and visit the Beehives Aztec sandstone rock formations and the Petrified Logs (the most common fossil in Nevada). Heading eastward, turn left just before the Visitor Center and head up to Mouse’s Tank. This area was named after Mouse, a Southern Paiute Indian renegade, who lived in the area in the 1890’s and used the canyon as his hideout until he was gunned down in July 1897. The tank is a natural basin located on the edge of a cliff on one canyon and on the floor of another. Between this crag of rocks are two small pools that collected the life-sustaining rainwater for Mouse. Take the short 0.5 mile hike known as Petroglyph Canyon to discover some prehistoric rock carvings and to see the Tank. Continue heading north, stopping at Rainbow Vista which gives you a panoramic view of multi-colored sandstone and then turn off to the right to view Fire Canyon’s deep red sandstone and the unique geological features of Silica Dome. Continue back on the main road to see Duck Point and the White Domes (5.5 miles from the Visitor Center). Head towards the picnic area at the Seven Sisters whose red rock formations are easily accessible from the road. You can also stop in at The Cabins, built with native sandstone by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s as a shelter for passing travelers. Don’t forget to see the petrified logs deposited there from an ancient forest about 225 million years ago and Elephant Rock, an aptly name red sandstone formation that looks like a seated elephant. There are walking trails throughout the park and climbing is also permitted in specific areas.

 

 

The park lies about 50 miles outside of Las Vegas. You can enter the park from either the east or west entrance by taking Nevada Route 169 from the I-15. Outside of the park you can visit Lake Mead NRA for some fishing, swimming, boating, hiking and mountain biking. Sadly, the drought is so bad at Lake Mead that Overton Beach is now a mud flat (camping facilities are currently closed), so you need to head to Echo, Calville or Las Vegas Bay if you want water! Alternatively, you can visit the 726 foot high and 1,244 foot wide Hoover Dam, seven miles from Boulder City.

The Valley of Fire has two developed campgrounds with 72 spaces between them at Atlatl Rock and Arch Rock. The sites all have shaded tables, grills and water. There are pay showers and restrooms. The Atlatl RV sites have water and power and there is a dump station just outside the campground. Sites are on a graded gravel surface and there is also a disabled site on a concrete slab. The Arch Rock campground (no hookups) is more primitive but ideal for those requiring greater solitude and seclusion. All sites are first come, first served except for the three group campgrounds where advance reservations are required. You should be sure to get up early to watch the sunrise; it is truly inspiring.

Lake Mead National Recreation Area Map (PDF)

Valley of Fire State Park, Overton, Nevada 89040

Tel: 1 (702) 397-2088 Visitor Brochure (includes map)

Visitor Center: Open Daily 8:30am-4:30pm

Park: Open year round from dawn until dusk

Entrance Fee: $6 | Camping: $14  | RV Camping (Full Hookups): $24 |

 

 

© Copyright 2009 Julian L. Gothard. Protected pursuant to the provisions of the Berne Convention. All rights reserved.