Beneluxx: Belgian beer, wine and fondue

December 29, 11:23 AMPhiladelphia Restaurant ExaminerLindsay Lovier

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In-table glass rinsers are a Beneluxx novelty.

Billed as a beer, wine and food tasting room, Beneluxx successfully navigates all three categories with only a few missteps.

It should come as no surprise that as a sister property to Eulogy Belgian Tavern that Beneluxx carries an extensive and exotic range of beers such as Scotland’s Harviestoun Old Engine Oil and Belgium’s Piraat. The fact that over 36 beers are available on draft and also available in 50 ml tastes allows customers to sample freely, without the concern that comes with ordering (and paying) for an entire bottle. In addition, 50 bottled beers round out the selection.

While the wine menu offers well-edited options ranging from domestic Pinot Noir to Argentinean Malbec, it is slightly less impressive than the beer list in terms of rare finds. However, with dozens of reds and whites, everyone should be able to find a glass that suits their taste. Plus, ratings from Wine Enthusiast, tasting notes and regional information make it easy for wine novices to choose the right glass for their palate.

Servers allow patrons to create their own wine and beer flights (up to four tastings per order), and samples arrive in mini-beakers designed to be poured into a larger tasting glass. Beneluxx’s famous in-table glass rinser is a novelty that allows customers to wash their own wine and beer glasses in between samples so that flavors don’t get muddled.

The food is quite good, although secondary to Beneluxx's concept of a wine and beer tasting room. Don’t come for the traditional bistro fare like Croque Monsieur or salad, instead save room for standouts in the snack category. Try the fantastically good shrimp bruschetta or one of the melty chocolate or cheese fondues. Make sure to order extra dippers like apples, fingerling potatoes or chorizo to accompany the cheese fondue; it’s worth the few extra bucks. However, be warned that the serving sizes are on the small side and bizarrely, come without the special fondue spears helpful for navigating the pot. Nevertheless, with most food priced beneath ten dollars and friendly service, it’s worth overlooking these small snafus for the overall experience.

Beneluxx's ambience is low-key and slightly more sophisticated than Eulogy, with lots of tables good for sitting and chatting rather than carousing. Vintage posters, dark wooden tables and a stained glass basement window give the joint a French café meets dimly-lit medieval beer dungeon vibe, which is actually quite appropriate for the sipping and swilling that takes place within Beneluxx’s walls. Get here this winter for some great samples of wine and beer, and warm up from the cold with a pot of decadent fondue.