Mountaineering 101: 12 steps to climbing Colorado’s Quandary Peak

August 30, 1:01 PMMinneapolis Outdoor Recreation ExaminerMarie Malinowski

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Quandary Peak Trailhead

Quandary Peak, at 14,265 feet, is Colorado’s thirteenth highest peak and the unquestioned Monarch of the Tenmile Range.

• Click here to view the Climbing Colorado's Quandary Peak slideshow.

Surrounded by lesser peaks, such as Fletcher, Northstar, and Red, Quandary is justifiably popular because of its proximity to Denver, a major highway, and a relatively easy Class 1 standard route up the south ridge.

While you have a better chance of  winning the lottery than finding solitude on Quandary’s summit, there is an alternate Class 3 route up the west and northeast ridges if you want a more adventurous and solitary ascent to the summit.

Note: When flying from Minneapolis’ nose-bleed inducing 830 feet to Denver’s 5,281 feet, and then adding another 9,000 feet in elevation within twelve hours, you will understandably experience fatigue, dehydration, shortness of breath, and mild dizziness. A few readers have asked how we deal with the physical affects of the altitude. The answer is that we break up the climb over two days by base camping at tree line the first day and then climbing to the summit the next. We’re never fully acclimatized, but since our goal is to climb all of Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks in three-day weekend trips, one has to be creative.

Day 1

1. Leave Minneapolis on a 7:00 am flight; arrive in Denver around 8:30 a.m.

2. Rent a car. Four wheel drive is not necessary for driving to the Quandary Peak Trailhead. Arrive at Denver REI at 10:00 a.m.

3. Purchase map of the White River National Forest, stove fuel, and other necessary items that you didn’t bring on the plane.

4. From Denver, take I-70 westbound to the Breckenridge exit. Turn south. Drive nine miles south from downtown Breckenridge on Colorado 9 to Summit County 850. Go west for a tenth of a mile and turn right onto Summit County 851. Drive one mile to the Quandary Peak Trailhead (10,900 ft) if you want the Class 1 route. If you want the Class 3 route, continue on Summit County 850 to the Blue Lake Trailhead (11,700 ft). See attached map.

5. Pack your backpack at the trailhead with the gear that you'll need for the next two days. We typically pack a few things into our respective packs and take them on the plane with us, then check two suitcases with our camping gear and extra clothes.

A word about the water on Quandary. There weren't any viable water sources along the trail when we were there last weekend, not even a lingering snowfield to melt snow into water. Be prepared to bring enough water for your climb to the tree line camp, drink at camp and use for cooking and washing, and for the summit hike the following day.

When the Quandary Peak Trail reaches treeline at approximately 11,500 feet, carefully venture off trail and set up your base camp in a comfortable-looking spot. It’s permissible to pitch a tent anywhere you like in the White River National Forest, but to reduce your environmental footprint, go for a spot that has been camped on before. Practice Leave No Trace ethics so that we all can enjoy the natural beauty for years to come. Whatever you pack in, pack out. And I do mean everything.

7. Relax for the remainder of the day. Acclimatize. Drink water. Read a book. Eat a dinner high in carbohydrates. Try to get a good night’s sleep.

8. When the moon rises, climb to the highest point around your campsite and gaze at the stars. I wax repetition on this but only because it’s an important issue to drive home: The stars are brilliant in the higher elevations when not obscured by city lights.

Day 2

9. Pack your daypack for the summit with water, snacks, rain gear, and a fleece jacket. Don’t forget your map. Leave your tent and camp essentials at camp. Start your ascent no later than 7:00 a.m., not rolling out of your sleeping bag at 7:00 a.m. You’ll be summiting a 14,265-foot peak and you’ll want to be off the highest part of the mountain by noon in case mid-day storms drop rain, sleet, snow, hail, or lightening.

The east ridge is a popular route with surprisingly only one false summit and no scrambling over exposed ridges. If you do want scrambling over exposed ridges, take the trail from the Blue Lake Trailhead. The Quandary Peak Trail is moderately well-maintained considering the terrain of the mountain, but expect to hoof over a lot of loose scree. Marmots and picas and assorted mountain goats abound.

10.  Summit Quandary Peak. Take pictures, kiss the summit cairn, sign the register, do a handstand, call your friends, send text messages (you will have reception up there) and brag, etc. Huddle into one of the several wind holes, eat a snack, drink some water, and take in the panoramic views from 14,265 feet. They're pretty amazing.

11. Begin your descent to your campsite. Take down your tent, thoroughly clean up your site and hike back to the Quandary Peak Trailhead. Drive to Breckenridge and order a burger and beer at the Breckenridge Brew Pub. Return to Denver and get a hotel room near the airport (or wherever you want to get a hotel room. We always stay near the airport because we have an early flight home Sunday).

Day 3

12. Fly home.

Recommended Gear

• Kelty Pawnee backpack
• Sierra Designs Zagori bivy or the Sierra Designs Lightning XT-1 tent
• Origo Rendezvous Peak watch
• Primus TiLite stove

For more information about climbing all of Colorado’s fourteeners, purchase a copy of Colorado’s Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs by Gerry Roach. Quite possibly the most comprehensive and detailed guide to everything you need to know about climbing Colorado’s big peaks.
 

View Quandary Peak (14,265) in a larger map