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A Day in Haarlem
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Haarlem is an alluring city in the province of North Holland. This gezellig little Dutch town, located just 20 kilometers (12.5 miles) west of Amsterdam, is often overlooked in favor of its more ostentatious neighbor. But to overlook Haarlem is to miss out on a delightful city brimming with history, style and subtle charm.
10 a.m
1) Haarlem Renaissance
The Frans Hal Museum (Groot Heiligland 62; 023-511-5775), located in a 17th century alms house for elderly men, houses a collection of paintings from the Golden Age of Dutch art. In addition to numerous works by Frans Hal, the museum also houses paintings by members of the Haarlem painters’ guild, of which Hal was a member.
12:00 p.m.
2) Haarlem Bites
Located near the Frans Hal museum, De Ark (Nieuw Heiligland 3; 023-531-1078) is a favorite with the locals and serves good, reasonably priced food. You can enjoy a 3-course meal at this typical bruincafé for approximately €20 ($30). The menu is simple, with the usual offerings of salads, main dishes and a children’s menu (€7 or $10). De Ark also offers daily specials, such as the stellar Portuguese stewed beef with potatoes, onions and mushrooms in a wine sauce (€7 or $10).
1:30 pm
3) The Hiding Place
Devout Christians and active members of the Dutch resistance, the Ten Boom family helped many Jews escape the Nazis by hiding them in their home. The Corrie Ten Boom Museum (Barteljorisstraat 19; 023-526-8481) has been refurbished to appear as it did in the 1940’s and visitors can see the small room, hidden behind a wall in Corrie’s bedroom, where the Ten Boom family hid and saved the lives of 800 Jewish people.
3:00
4) Red Carpet Treatment
Haarlem is considered by many to be the best shopping city in the Netherlands. Follow the pedestrian-only area, known as the rode loper (red carpet) to the main shopping street that gives the city its newly fashioned identity. The consciously fashionable Yugo (Kruisweg 72; 023-531-9876) stocks chunky, funky knits made of organic cotton, hemp and soy. The trendy A Guy Named Sue (Kruisweg 25; 023-532-6725) carries collections by popular brands such as French Connection and Laundry, as well as pieces from the up and coming Dutch label Daite.
Getting there
Haarlem is a 15-minute train ride from Amsterdam, with trains leaving Amsterdam’s Central Station every 10 minutes. For schedules and ticket information go to www.ns.nl.
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