Brunch at SoNo's Brewhouse

May 17, 7:50 PMFairfield County Craft Beer ExaminerJim Armstrong

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Misleading name, delicious brunch

The Brewhouse restaurant in South Norwalk caused no small amount of confusion when I first discovered it two years ago. Brand new to the area and feeling out the beer scene, I came across The Brewhouse while walking around SoNo by the Norwalk Maritime Center. All it took was a glimpse of the massive copper brew kettles through the windows to get me inside, anxious to try their selection of brewed-on-premises offerings.

Alas, it was not to be. The beautiful brick building used to be home to the New England Brewing Company, but those copper kettles have not boiled a batch of beer in some time. The brewery was moved thirty miles away to Woodbridge, CT in 2001, transforming The Brewhouse from brewpub to… restaurant. I wasn’t too happy upon making this discovery, and considered filing a misleading advertising suit against those beautiful, beguiling kettles.

Give some credit to The Brewhouse’s management team – they were expecting guys like me. To soothe the pain of learning there were no house taps, the restaurant offered a pretty substantial beer list, along with a well-rounded menu. Sure, I pouted for a few minutes, but a serving of delicious lobster pot pie and a cool bottle of Allagash White got me back to a happy place, and I left with a new place to eat in SoNo.

Since that first visit, The Brewhouse has become my go-to Sunday brunch place. At $26.95 a person, it’s not the cheapest brunch around, but I think the unlimited drinks (champagne, mimosas, or poinsettias) and wide variety of food makes it worth it. The food is served all-you-can-eat buffet style (with the exception of made-to-order omlettes) and covers all the bases - traditional brunch staples (bacon, hash browns, and Eggs Benedict), seafood (paella, smoked salmon, and a full raw bar), carving stations (ham, turkey, and roast beef), and some things you don’t normally see at brunch (penne al vodka, Asian pork dumplings, and pulled pork). And yes, the famous lobster pot pie is a regular offering, served deconstructed as small cubes of flaky pastry dough that you can ladle the creamy, lobster-laden filling over. I’m not sure who has room for dessert after all of that, but a Viennese table stuffed with confections of every variety is there if you need it. I’ve never made it that far.

For those who prefer beer to champagne cocktails, The Brewhouse does not disappoint. The beer list boasts over 50 bottled options, with a healthy selection of Belgian beers and even a Finnish porter! If draft is your thing, the 16 taps at the beautiful copper-topped bar will be sure to satisfy. A handful are wasted with Bud and Co., but the restaurant makes up for it with Brooklyn Pennant Ale, Captain Lawrence Brown Bird Ale, Radeberger Pilsner, Paulaner, Stella Artois, Hoegaarden, Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA, and a nod to the past, New England Brewing Co.’s Atlantic Amber. There are also a few rotating seasonal taps, and I was thrilled to find one occupied by Ommegang’s Hennepin Saison today.

All in all, The Brewhouse is a great place to while away a Sunday, sampling a wide array of delicious eats, leisurely browsing a newspaper, and sipping the generously mixed mimosas or a beer of your choice. Reservations are recommended for the dining room, but you can usually find a spot at the bar if you arrive unannounced. Check it out for yourself, and let me know how you made out!

For more info: Contact The Brewhouse at 203-853-9110 or visit their website at www.sonobrewhouse.com - tell them Examiner.com sent you!