Bells' Expedition Stout: not an incredible journey

June 27, 10:17 PMSuburban Philadelphia Craft Beer ExaminerMichael Hoster

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A few hours ago, I returned home from a three-day business trip. I was tired, disoriented and ready to relax. So, I finally decided to open a bottle of Bells’ Expedition Stout that I purchased at Capone’s earlier this year. And now, after just finishing the snifter, I must contend that Bells’ Expedition is not an incredible journey, but more of an unwelcome fall down the stairs.

Bells’ Expedition Stout has been long regarded as a top-ten imperial stout on both www.ratebeer.com and www.beeradvocate.com. The beer often garners rave reviews and excessive lauding.

After first reading such gushing commentary several years ago, I anxiously purchased a bottle of Expedition at Union Jack’s Inn on the Manatawny. Even at that very early period in my connoisseurship, I thought Expedition was mediocre at best--certainly nowhere near the realm of Victory Storm King or Rogue Imperial Stout. And admittedly, the bottle that I just consumed a few moments ago was no better.

Bells’ Expedition Stout poured jet black, with a thin, dark tan head. The aroma was unremarkable, save a healthy dose of baker’s chocolate and/or cocoa. However, there were virtually no hints of coffee, roasted malts, smoke or aromatic hops. Upon consumption, Expedition demonstrated a commanding presentation of semi-sweet, dark chocolate, which actually was rather enjoyable. But, that initial burst of chocolate was this beer’s apogee. The rest of its presentation was widely devoid of bitter coffee or high-acid hops, providing no balance against the sweet onslaught. Even worse, Expedition’s finish not only delivered an undesirable blast of alcohol, but also presented evidence of several dark fruits, including fig, prune and currant. Simply atrocious.

I have the exact same contention against Stone Imperial Stout. Its reviews are phenomenal and its critics are virtually non existent—but, I vehemently loathe its presentation of dark fruits. As I briefly alluded to in my review of Weyerbacher Old Heathen, dark fruit has no business in American imperial stout. But, all toll, I suppose…to each his or her own.

For more information on Expedition Stout and other Bells’ products, visit: www.bellsbeer.com/index.php/home