Venice, the alluring labyrinth of un-named pedestrian corridors (the Calles or alleys that are the sidewalks of the city), connecting bridges, and winding canals, has never looked better. I’ve made six trips to Venice over the last nine years and have witnessed a rebirth of the city. There is no other place like Venice on earth.
Two years ago the Basilica of San Marco was shrouded in a spider web of construction scaffolding that hid its beauty like a veil. The Byzantine bronze horses that stand magnificently over the entrance peering down into the piazza were sheltered in boxes that protected them during the renovation. A heavy layer of soot, years of acid rain, pollution, water damage, and age took its toll on Venice; a city at the crossroads for trade from Europe, Turkey, Greece, and Asia for centuries.
Today the city glistens in the sun again! The scaffolding is slowly coming down as its facelift goes into high gear. The Basilica and Palazzo Ducale di Venezia (the Doges Palace) are shining examples of painstaking, meticulous and loving restoration. Sections of the loggias surrounding the Piazza San Marco have been cleaned as well, revealing a crisp whiteness that gleams brightly in the sun. As you glide across the lagoon towards San Marco, you notice the Doges Palace is partially wrapped with a bright sky-blue mural of a doubled sided chic woman’s face in sunglasses. At first glance the mural startled me; it was as if someone had disfigured part of my second home. But, I quickly realized that this clever, Madison Avenue-style, advertising wrap was just another veil hiding the remarkable restoration that is taking place beneath it. The mural will come down eventually when the work is finished.
Seeing the Doges Palace like this is just another landmark in the history of the gothic structure that was built sometime between 1309 and 1424; possibly designed by Filippo Calendario. Records show the palace was badly damaged by fire in 1574 and in the subsequent rebuilding it was decided to respect the original gothic style, despite the submission of a neo-classical alternative design by famed Venetian architect Andrea Palladio. However, some classical renaissance features were added, including the famed link between the palace and its prison, the Bridge of Sighs.
Since Venice itself is an outdoor architectural masterpiece and this was my sixth visit, I had yet to go inside any of the paid museums. So this time my companion and I purchased a museum pass online for 18 Euro each, which entitled us to visit eight museums over a period of six months, a bargain considering the entrance fee to the Doges Palace alone is 17 Euro. Go to http://www.hellovenezia.com/jsp/en/index/index.jsp for more information on discounted advance ticket purchases.
On this trip we spent one morning at the Doges Palace and an afternoon at the Ca'Rezzonico Museum located at the Fondamenta Rezzonico – Dorsoduro on the opposite side of the Grand Canal from San Marco, where it is joined by the Rio di San Barnaba. The palazzo is sumptuously furnished with Murano glass, hand painted ceiling frescos, wall paintings by such artists as Pietro Longhi, Francesco Guardi and Giandomenico Tiepolo, and antique furniture. The collection of art by great masters on the top floor alone is worth the visit.
The Venetian Carnival Mask is another veil. It is worn by Venetian citizens during Carnivale, which officially starts two weeks before Ash Wednesday and ends on Shrove Tuesday (Fat Tuesday or Mardi Gras), the day before Ash Wednesday in February. As you wander through the Calles you will find a multitude of shops selling masks, Murano glass, jewelry and other souvenirs. If you are interested in purchasing a mask the best advice is to talk to the artist. Ask permission to touch the masks, ask questions, and watch the artist at work making them, so you will understand the exquisite process. An authentic mask is made of layers of fine paper-mâché that are painted in stages and ornately decorated; some even have jewels sewn or glued on. It’s wise to educate yourself on the quality. You can pay the equivalent of $15 dollars for a plastic mask mass-produced for tourists or several hundred dollars for a one of a kind mask created by an artist. It pays to shop and explore. High quality masks that have more economical price tags are available deep within the Venetian maze, not on San Marco or the shops surrounding the Rialto Bridge. You will pay top dollar for a mask there.
Sightseeing and shopping requires refueling; so don’t be afraid to explore and try the vast number of Venetian restaurants, Trattorias, and stand-up snack and pizza shops that are located in every neighborhood you might happen upon as you walk through Venice’s labyrinth. Try Trattoria Rivetta, a tiny place where Gondoliers and locals break for lunch and kick their heels up a bit. The help is friendly and they treat you like family. Try a carafe of the house wine, homemade ravioli, and the fresh catch of the day; fish, calamari or shrimp. If you are seeking a more elegant dining experience go to Paradiso Ristorante in the Calle de Paradiso – San Polo near the Rialto. The décor is Venetian blue and the patio is decorated with Venetian lanterns. Try the fresh Mozzarella Caprese, fresh fish of the day, cheese plate and meat specialties. They also have an excellent selection of wines. Other restaurant suggestions include the Ristorante Al Conte Pescaor in the Campo San Zulian – San Marco where we enjoyed a semi-sweet Prosseco that danced on my tongue. The house specialty is fish; we noticed an American trio there who had returned specifically to enjoy the Branzino (fish – sea bass) baked in salt. At the Ristorante Centrale in the Calle Specchieri – San Marco we were introduced to a typical Venetian dessert – Gorgonzola with a perfectly smooth Moscato; the salty richness of the cheese paired perfectly with the medium-sweet, nicely chilled white wine.
Also having lunch outdoors in small neighborhood piazza’s offers a glimpse of local life. While we we’re dining a gypsy woman dressed in a floral frock begged for money at two of the neighborhood outdoor cafes, including ours. After she tried the first café she was cast aside by the restaurant help, which led the women to walk over to the community fountain for a drink of water and to clean up. The photos illustrate her plight.
Accommodations in Venice can be expensive. The better four-star hotels have convenient locations and some are right on a canal. Two hotels that I favor are Hotel Colombina (four-star) in the Calle de Remedio – Castello and Hotel La Locandiera in the Campo San Giovannie Novo – San Croce (three-star). Both are located close to San Marco Square.
Hotel Colombia is the closest to the square and is within easy walking distance of the Vaporetto stop at San Marco Giardinetti. From there you have only one canal bridge to cross, so it is pretty easy to get to it with your luggage. Or, since the Colombina is directly on a canal, you can splurge and take a water-taxi directly to the hotel’s private taxi entrance. The Colombina is very luxurious, with a private bar and lounge, marble floors throughout, spacious rooms, and handsome bathrooms. A delicious continental breakfast is offered with hot to order American or English breakfast items. Want to shop for glass? Hotel guests are offered a complimentary boat ride to the island of Murano for a glass factory tour. The front desk concierges are happy to accommodate requests and will help you with directions, provide maps, water taxis, or tickets for an evening concert; we took in Vivaldi's Four Seasons at a historic church near the Rialto.
Getting around Venice is actually easier than might be imagined. Whether arriving by air, train, bus, or car, waterways are a way of life for the Venetians. From San Marco International Airport take the Alleguna ferries, a seven minute walk from the airport to the water front. For 13 Euro one way, the ferry will take you to San Marco, Rialto or other docks in about 90 minutes. Faster more direct ferries start at 25 Euro one way and take about one hour, or you can hire a private water taxi and pay around $100. If you are taking the train into Venice, the train pulls into Santa Lucia, located on the Santa Lucia Quay near the final stretch of the canal. Once you are off of the train walk a short distance to the canal and get on a vaparetto water ferry. If you choose to drive to Venice, you can’t go any farther than Piazza Roma, where you will pay to park your car.
Time permitting; take a boat to the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano was a commercial port as early as the 7th Century. Today it is home to the famous Murano glass factory. The glass is developed using refined technologies such as crystalline glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine), multicolored glass (millefiori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass. Don’t miss seeing a glass blowing demonstration. At my demo the artist created a multi-colored glass horse in less than 30 minutes! If you are interested in purchasing a collectors piece of Murano glass or a chandelier, the island of Murano offers the best prices. Most shops will ship to the United States.
Burano, just a couple of water taxi stops from Murano is one of the most picturesque islands of the Venetian Lagoon. Famous for its lace-making industry, the pretty fishing village has pastel colored houses that line the canal. To get to Murano and Burano take the Number 12 Vaporetto from Fondamenta Nuove or the Number 14 from San Zaccaria near St Marks Square.
Writing this article about Venice, makes me want to return. I am already thinking about adding another mask to my collection – and too, the Port of Venice Cannaregio is one of the gateways to cruising the Mediterranean! More to see! With nearly 500 ship departures and 700,000 cruise passengers per year it’s location within the Venetian Lagoon is convenient to visiting other European destinations along the Adriatic. So, what are you waiting for? Once you have discovered the mystical beauty, learned the history, and sampled some of the Venetian hospitality, you too will return more than once, like I have.
Here's helpful Web sites to plan your escape to Venice
www.comune.venezia.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/EN/IDPagina/1
www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/venice
www.world66.com/europe/italy/veneto/venice
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