Sailing to Colombia

San Blas Island. Photo by Mario Arias

Remember that scene in Romancing the Stone where Michael Douglas says, "Cartagena? Angel, you are hell and gone from Cartagena"? You probably said to yourself "I want to walk around Colombia with a bad outfit and a machete saying things like that."  Well don't, because that wouldn't end well, but you can do the second best thing and keep the dream alive by sailing to Cartagena on a private sailboat.  You'll probably be just as lost for the most part, but for roughly $300-400 you and a few other intrepid travelers can ease your way between Central and South America alongside the Darien Gap. You'll have an unforgettable voyage and plenty of down time to come up with your own quotes as you wonder if you'll ever get to Cartagena.

Captains have been ferrying the adventurous back and forth from various parts of Panama to either Cartagena or Capurgana, Colombia for years now. It's normally a 5-7 day trip (depending on weather) that offers some outstanding off-the-beaten-path rewards that include:

Kuna children. Photo by Mario Arias

- A few days to intimately explore the San Blas Islands and their inhabitants, the Kuna Indians. The captains usually have predetermined islands they like to stop at and you're pretty much guaranteed to be the only tourists around. Some of the larger communities have airstrips (and some very nice hotels, I hear), but for the most part these islands are only accessible by boat. On my trip we managed to tour the local school, join a pick up basketball game (travelers vs. locals, of course), have a beer and inspect the local fishing traps all on the spur of the moment.

- Spending the night on a deserted island about the size of a baseball diamond after having fished for dinner. We were able to run a line while we sailed, and then used a spear gun once we arrived (which none of us were successful with, except for the captain). It's pretty hard to beat cooking up fresh fish on your own island and then sipping some rum around the bonfire afterwards. 

Sailing aboard the Twyla. Photo by Mario Arias

-Sailing alongside the Darien Gap for days and marveling at both it's grandeur and impenetrability. It's generally accepted as being impassable on foot, although its been done and I did meet a guy who succeeded by hugging the coast. Unless you're into extreme adventure though, I'd recommend the boat option.

So, the details. There are dozens of boats that ply the two main routes from Portobelo, Panama to either Cartagena or Capurgana, Colombia. Keep in mind that if you choose the latter, you will have to find your own way onward. Capurgana is a tiny (but beautiful) town just past the Panama/Colombia border and accessible only by prop plane or speedboat.  Each boat has different rules, on some you may be required to take part in cooking or sailing, on others you're free to do what you want. In general though for your money you get food and drink (you are responsible for buying alcohol), fresh water for showering (although sometimes that can get low towards the end of the trip and then it's ocean shower only), and a bed. The cabins can be somewhat small though so I slept on the deck most of the time and much preferred the stars and waves to snoring bed mates.

Research carefully, as there have been nightmarish stories about drunk or inept captains and voyages that stretch into weeks due to lack of wind or ship maintenance. The two boats I would recommend looking into are the Stahlratte and the Twyla. I ended up on the Twyla (Captain Javier is the man), but we anchored next to the Stahlratte one night and I would suggest either. Their websites have solid departure dates, current contact info and more details about what to expect.