The festival's big winners, David and Abel Bibayoff photo: Steve Dryden
The XIX Fiestas de La Vendimia, Baja California's famous wine festival, was very successful this year, featuring forty-five wine and food related events that took place from August 7th through 23rd. The events have captured the attention and enthusiasm of residents of the area and other parts of Mexico, as well as wine lovers from all over the world, as they discover and explore authentic fine Mexican wines. Little by little, Mexico seems to be embracing the world of wine, gourmet food, and wine country exploration, along with the ubiquitous tequila and beer. According to local wine country writer and travel guide, Steve Dryden, "It’s a very exciting time to be enjoying the lifestyle of the Mexican wine culture."
Bibayoff Winery, located in the Guadalupe Valley winegrowing area, was the grand first place winner of the festival's most popular event, La Cofradia Food and Wine Pairing event, held on Tuesday August 18th at the Cruise Ship terminal in Ensenada. In fact, it was the second time in two years that David and Abel Bibayoff captured the festival's highest honors with their Chenin Blanc/Columbard blends. This year their offerings were matched with gourmet delights from Ophelia restaurant of Ensenada. The Bibayoff family, of Russian Molokan heritage, for many years was known primarily as growers of premium wine grapes, but over the last several years the father and son team have refined their skills and are creating table wines of high quality. Previously, they sold their harvest to the better boutique wineries who used the juice to create award-winning wines. These successes prompted them to experiment with winemaking on their own. Their research eventually led them to develop their award-winning blends. In addition, Bibayoff Winery produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, and Zinfandel varietals. Not only are their wines beguiling, but their vineyards and winery offer a romantic and tranquil setting for weekend wine travelers along the alternative wine route in Guadalupe Valley. Their estate also features a small museum offering a rare insight into the history of Russian farmers in the region. The Bibayoff family holds many special events throughout the year, hosts weddings, and offers camping sites to travelers.
Enjoying the Fiestas photo: Keith Rock
The Cofradia food and wine event (La Noche de Cofradia en Ensenada) included about thirty of the top wineries and restaurants in the region. Wineries and restaurants in the competition were matched by random drawing prior to the event. The winemakers and chefs met, and the contest began. According to Dryden, "These 'masters' have become so good in pairing food with wine that’s it is extremely difficult to pick a winner." But it was easy for festival participants from all over the world to investigate what Dryden calls Mexico's “bottled gems” from local wineries, and sample culinary delights from the region's top food establishments. Other paired winners were Bodegas de Santo Tomas with Laboratorio Gastronómico, Tintos del Norte 32 with Galería Gourmet, Cavas Valmar with Restaurante Asao, Monte Xanic with Restaurante Punta Morro, Paralelo with Villa Saverios, and Roganto with Casa Canola. Included in the kudos was Marcelo Castro Chacón of La Cava de Marcelo, who offered samples of his aged, gourmet cheeses from Rancho La Campana in the town of Ojos Negros south of Tijuana. His cheese is gaining national recognition and further enhancing the evolution of Mexico’s food and wine culture.
Antipasto plate featuring local products by Tijuana's Villa Saverios photo: Masa Assassin
Dryden proudly points out that events like La Cofradia indicate that Ensenada is becoming the food and wine capital of Mexico. "Our close proximity to the wine country, an abundance of fresh seafood, gourmet cheese production, premium olive oils, superior baked goods, and organic fruits and vegetables, all blended and prepared by passionate culinary wizards from many ethnic backgrounds are fueling the emerging food and wine culture. Furthermore, everyone seems to be jumping into artisan cooking and 'moonlight' winemaking."
2009 has been a showcase year for Ensenada and the Guadalupe Valley wine trail with a newly expanded La Ruta del Vino highway and the addition of new wineries and restaurants. La Escuelita, the area's premier artisan winemaking institution, and the state university located in Ensenada have expanded their winemaking, enology and viticulture programs, drawing international interest.
And Mexican wines get better with each vintage. L.A. Cetto Wines, Latin America's largest wine producer, has received numerous gold medals this year, including “double golds” from competitions in San Francisco and Japan for their 2004 Private Reserve Nebbiolo. The area's Viñedos Malagon recently won a gold medal in California for their “old vine” Garnacha blends, earning a large following in the U.S. and Mexico. In fact, the reputation of Baja's vineyards has prompted several top winemakers from California, including Wente Vineyards, to invest in Guadalupe Valley, helping to further propel this region onto the map of significant world wine regions.
LA Cetto Ensenada Winery photo: Carmela Birch
The Guadalupe Valley of Baja California has emerged as a wine producing region and wine travel destination rivaling any in the world in quality and creativity, making Mexico a viable player in the world of wine. Steve Dryden reports that there have been no recorded incidents of wine travelers experiencing anything but the typical petty crimes of any tourist destination, and the vast majority of tourists enjoy the time they spend in the area. The local roads and hospitality facilities are modern and up-to-date, and the capable restauranteurs and winemakers are eager to impress. Let's all meet at next year's Fiestas de la Vendimia. I can't wait!
Please find videos below (Spanish language), taken at the Paella Contest at the 2008 Fiestas de la Vendimia in Ensenada. The paellas are certain to get your mouth watering, and the winemakers recommend a cold, oaky chardonnay as the perfect accompanment to these rich traditional rice, seafood, meat, and vegetable casseroles. Clearly, the crowd is having a blast!
Additional information:
My previous article on Fiestas de la Vendimia
Baja Wine and Tours - website of local wine travel expert Steve Dryden
Baja Times - local source for news and information
Special thanks to Steve Dryden for souce info. Steve can be reached by email at sbdryden [at] hotmail [dot] com.
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