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Bell Wine and Spirits Grand Tasting June 2009
Last week at Bell Wine and Spirits' grand tasting, clientele tasted the 2006 Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape 'Vieilles Vignes.' It was a show stopper.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the best known and most prestigious wine region in the Southern Rhone. The region's name translates as "new castle of the Pope," which refers to the years that the Pope resided in the nearby Avignon rather than Rome (1305-1377). Controversy ensued upon return of the Papacy to Rome. You can read about it on Wikipedia if this bit of history escapes your memory.
The area offers a complex and unique set of climatic conditions that contribute to the wine's special qualities, but also present challenges for farmers. North of the French Riviera, this region has a reasonably hot climate, which is suited to growing rich Grenache grapes and other grapes in the blend like Syrah. However, the region is periodically cooled by the "Mistral"--cold winds that come from the not-too-distant Alps. This cool wind helps temper the hot weather and can prevent grapes from ripening too quickly. As a result, they retain enough acidity to maintain some crisp qualities in the wines even in hot years. However, the Mistral is a mixed blessing as the powerful winds can damage grapes and vines.
This area of the Rhone is known for extremely rocky soil that cover the surface of the ground in particular, insulating the roots of the vines from the sun's heat and retaining some moisture in the soil below. They also collect heat during the day and release it at night. This helps ripening, particularly in cooler years, by keeping the vines warm at night. But large stones and rocks make planting quite a chore. In any case, the stony, rocky terrain is a sight that tourists often come to see.
Chateauneuf red wines are made with mostly Grenache, which can make watery wines under the wrong conditions. However, older vines, proper pruning, and just the right climate makes spicy, rich, and sometimes earthy, wines in this region. While Grenache is the primary grape, other grapes are blended in to add complexity, particularly Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault.
The LA Times featured the Clos St. Jean last New Years Eve as the “wine of the week,” and aptly described it as having “seductive notes of licorice, dark plums and spices; soft, ripe tannins; and a finespun elegance.” This wine is 75 percent Grenache and the rest is Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and other grapes.
Bells sells this wine for $51.99, but offered it for $43.99 the night of the tasting. Discounts up to 15 percent are currently available (limited time) when ordering wine by the case. This wine is also available at The Vineyard in McLean Virginia, and is currently on sale for about $37, according to their website.
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