Now that I’m on the email list for Laughing Chicken Farm I get monthly updates from owners, Bill and Robin Popp, and I was gratified to hear that at a recent Small Farms Council session they had guests from the Food Safety and Food Defense Advisory Small Farms Subcommittee and the University of Florida. What was most exciting is that based on FDA, USDA and Center for Disease control records, there have been no recorded cases of food-born illnesses in eggs and poultry coming from small producers with facilities exempt from the USDA, meaning the small, local farms like Laughing Chicken. The Small Farms Council is also promoting education among small farms to keep this spotless record.

These small farms, like Laughing Chicken, are not factory producing chicken or eggs, but using smaller scale practices as outlined in the movie Food, Inc (and the book by Michael Pollan, Omnivore’s Dilemma). Sadly, these local farms have to post a disclaimer that this meat is for “Pet Food, only” to appease the current laws in place that protect our food supply. These laws exist as protections from large-scale factory farms that tend to be breeding grounds for diseases and have to use antibiotics just to keep their animals alive, and are not geared to local, smaller farms. We need new laws to cover local production that honors the fact that these facilities are proven to be safer. Yes, we need protection, through inspection and regulation, through laws and certification, but we also need to stop thinking that bigger is always better and look at the older, more natural ways to farm, as well as the real statistics. Of course the factory meat producers have much more money to impact legislation and don’t want local competition.

Laughing Chicken Farm encourages customers to call and come out to see their farm, where large-scale chicken farmers working for the big meat companies certainly do not. The Popp’s need you to call ahead, so they can unlock the gate, but that’s all. They are proud that they have nothing to hide. As a consumer, the other benefit is in the taste of free range, grass-fed chicken. Yes, there is less breast meat, but the flavors from the whole bird are significantly better, and every one of my pets seemed to smell the difference when I cook birds from Laughing Chicken, which I find proof enough. The stock I made from the leftover chicken roast had so much more flavor than any store-bought stock, and it enriched many subsequent meals. I wanted to use all of this bird, because I felt so much better about its source. Cheaper is not always better. Laughing Chicken is at both the Alachua County Farmers Market on 441 and the Haile Village Farmers Market, every Saturday.

Classically we pair Chardonnay with roasted chicken, but I find Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Torrontés also work very well, and my choice depends sometimes on the sides and the stuffing flavors. If red is your choice then look to softer reds like Pinot Noir, Gamay Beaujolais, Garnacha (or Grenache) and Monastrell (or Mourvedre) to pair perfectly with your most excellent, locally sourced bird.