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Washington wine country's hidden stars: '37 Cellars

Tastings in Paris and London in 1976 proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that World Class quality wines can be made from grapes grown in areas of the globe other than the “classified” first-growth vineyards in Bordeaux and Burgundy. 

That message was sealed in gold when 3 years ago, a California wine which had finished 3rd in the 1976 competition finished first in the 30-year reunion tasting. The Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon placed 3rd in the ’76 event, not bad for an upstart winery, but when it finished first thirty years later, it ended for all times the bogus claim that New World wines were only good when young.

Fast forward to 2000 A.D. and we see another upstart on the scene making serious inroads in the red Bordeaux styled wine arena. Here is the list of the top eight wines from the San Francisco, Miami and New York tastings of the great red wines of the world. They are listed in order of finishing:

  1. Gordon Brothers 1998 Tradition, Columbia Valley AVA $40.00/btl
  2. DeLille Cellars 1998 Chaleur Estate, Yakima Valley AVA $45.00/btl
  3. Col Solare 1998 Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley AVA $70.00/btl
  4. Opus One 1997 Red Wine, Napa Valley AVA $140.00/btl
  5. Caymus 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley AVA $68.00/btl
  6. Quilceda Creek 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington State AVA $55.00
  7. Chateau Cos d’Estrournel 1996 St. Estephe AOC $128.00/btl
  8. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1996 Pauillac AOC $235.00/btl


As you can clearly see, the top three scoring wines are from Washington state; better yet, 50% of the top eight wines are Washington state products. Best of all, note the prices and compare that for the value index. A $40.00 bottle of top quality wine, world class rated, as compared with a $235.00 bottle eighth place finisher, how’s that compare for value?

Now that you’re paying attention, let’s move on to the real point. Great wines start with world class grapes. We now know for certain that such grapes can be grown in more places than just the Bordeaux region’s vineyards.

But world class wines also require world class treatment of the quality fruit. One does not make a world class Bordeaux blend by treating the grapes as if they were just another ingredient in the mix of things.

The team at ‘37 Cellars,  Frank Dechaine and Chuck Egner, know that point all too well. They are young, in terms of winery age having only been bonded, but they have two things in their favor. One they understand the value of age and experience. Also, they both own and honor their ‘37 Martin guitars and respect and admire quality craftsmanship. They aim to make wines they can be as proud of as they are of their ‘37 Martin guitars.

The latest releases, the 2008 Chardonnay, and the 2007 Trio, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon all demonstrate the quality of age-worthy but currently outstanding and drinkable wines.

The winery offers tasting by appointment only. However, the inconvenience of pre-arranged appointment is well worth the effort it takes on your part to re-arrange. The wines will both surprise and delight any who make the trip up the hill, and the view of the valley below from atop the hill is spectacular.

The ‘37 Cellars Chardonnay is wine vinted from grapes grown in Quincy in the Columbia Valley, a growing region that someday will receive its just awards. Two area wineries also making Chardonnay from fruit from the region are Ryan-Patrick Vineyards and the highly acclaimed Boudreaux Cellars. These all are white wines worth your time and effort to discover.

‘37 Cellars reds are from outstanding vineyards in Washington state, Klipsun Vineyards, on Red Mountain, and Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards, from the Walla Walla AVA. All of these vineyards sell grapes to the most acclaimed wineries in the state.

The ‘37 Cellars Red Mountain Merlot contains a splash of Petite Verdot harvested from the Dionysus Vineyards at Sagemoor Farms. The wine spent 17 months aging in a blend of 50% new American oak barrels and 50% neutral barrels. There are only 50 cases of the wine, so you need to get yours early.

The ’37 Cellars Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon is Pepper Bridge fruit that was aged for 22 months in a blend of new French oak barrels and neutral American oak barrels. Here too, only 50 cases exist.

The third red, called ‘37 Cellars Trio consists of a blend 55% Cabernet Sauvignon from Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards, 40% Red Mountain Merlot from those famous Klipsun vineyards & 5% Petite Verdot, again that Dionysus fruit. The wine spent 22 months in neutral French and American oak barrels. Only 70 cases of the marvelous blend exist.

These are young wines from a young winery, but they are wines of distinction and the simple fact is, ‘37 Cellars may in time prove to be Washington state’s equivalent to the California Ridge Winery, a true world class producer.
 

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Redmond Wine Examiner

Alex Saliby is a wine lover who credits his interest in wines to time and place. He and his family were residents of San Jose, CA in the mid 60s...

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