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Paul Kalemkiakiran Jr, has one of the world’s best, albeit sensitive, jobs: tasting and rating about 400 wines a month. He runs the Wine of the Month Club.
“Wine drinkers today have much more sophisticated palates and are drinking less sweet wines than when we started our business in the 1970s,” he said. “There has been a proliferation and availability of excellent wines and wine education.”
There have been some new trends catching on in the last 10 years: The three martini lunch is passé; whereas going to a wine bar after work is the new preferred way to enjoy some relaxing moments. The movie “Sideways” is still having an effect on the wine market: Pinot Noir prices continue to climb and good quality wines are more difficult to find because of their popularity. Conversely, Merlot has fallen from grace although there are some excellent quality varietals at value prices on the market now. Some things stay the same – Cabernet Sauvignon is still is still king.
At his Long Beach headquarters, Tuesdays are tasting days. Appointments with winemakers, representatives, brokers or distributors began at 9 a.m. and are blocked at 15-minute intervals. There are usually about 80 wines on the table to be tested. Each bottle is opened when it is presented; 35 to 40 percent have screw caps.
“I swirl, sniff, sip and then spit into a dental-type sink with spinning water,” he said. “I look for a wine that is indicative of its growing area. For example, if the wine is from Napa Valley I expect some eucalyptus, dry red fruit and a certain level of acid. I score the wines on technique too.”
He said a perfect Sauvignon Blanc would be crisp, a plate layered with character, not too much herb, citrusy with good body. If the wine is golden colored he knows it was picked too late. A white color tells Kalemkiakiran the wine could be thin and watery.
The company rejects 85 percent of the wine they taste. That can be because the wines are over priced, out of balance or they have aged prematurely.
“Winemaking is an art form and winemakers are sensitive about their product,” he said. “After I taste their wine we discuss it in practical terms and they tend to agree with my assessment.
“The most powerful sense is your smell,” he said. “The palate merely verifies your nose. A perfect wine begs you to drink more.”
Comments
I'm a littl eocnfused: you state that if the wine (Sauv Blanc) is too golden in color it was picked too late, and if it is white, it "may be too thin or watery"....what color is Sauv Blanc supposed ot be given that criteria?
Yeah, right. Paul K. says he rejects 85% of the wines presented to him? And then after he tastes with the winemaker (and he rejects them and their wines)"they tend to agree with my assessment." Give me a break; big ego involved here.
Great article. I know these guys, they are in Monrovia, Ca….I found their website…www.wineofthemonthclub.com. ..they have a cool tv site….www.wineofthemonthclub.tv….
I tend to agree with what he says. So much of the wine at the supermarkets is junk. JM
You view the color of the wine to get a glimpse of what might be coming. Older whites and whites from hot climates tend to golden yellow....they turn brown as they age. A white wine that is pale or too white would suggest that it is thin and flavorless.
We do reject 85% of the wines we taste.....for many reasons. The winemaker agreement part is out of context. Telling a winemaker about a flaw is like criticizing a painting with the artist
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