A long time ago, somewhere in the Middle Ages, the great dukes of Burgundy got serious about wine. We can credit them for being the first gourmands. Realizing the potential of Pinot Noir, they singed out the grape to be the only grape of the land. If you wanted to plant the “other red grape”, Gamay, you were exiled to the southern slopes of Beaujolais.

And so it came to be. Beaujolais is the one Burgundy commune allowed to plant Gamay. The grape has a status problem due to the popularity of Beaujolais Nouveau, which is perceived as more entertainment than wine—not something you would bring to your in-laws for a Thanksgiving meal.

Don’t judge so fast.

Beaujolais has three distinctions: plain Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages, and the ten communes, or Crus. This is where the underrated Gamay prospers and shows its playful characteristics.

It produces wines that are generally very light, in color and flavor, and taste like a party. Like grapes. Like youth. A glass of it is sure to brighten up cold and dark Boston evenings. Wine drinkers owe it to themselves to have more fun with Beaujolais. It’s like a secret society: pretty much everyone likes it, yet no one talks about it as a noteworthy wine.

One of the largest and most famous Crus is Brouilly, proucing wines that are more elegant and longer lasting than those of its neighboring communes.

In the spirit of Thanksgiving research, I am tasting a wine from Brouilly named Chateau de la Chaize, vintage 2005 ($18). I picked it up at a local packy on Porter Square, Liquor World, which has a shockingly diverse wine selection for such an unassuming liquor joint. The owner must love wine.

Due to the structure of the Gamay grape, Beaujolais is meant to be drunk young (not Beaujolais Nouveau young, just up to a couple of years in the botlle). 2005 can be considered ancient in comparison. Don’t seek it out on purpose—it’s not the grape praised for its age-worthiness. But 2005 was an excellent vintage in Burgundy overall, plus that’s the only one the store had, so I conceded.

This wine blew me away with sheer elegance. It was light, even lighter than Pinot Noir. Scented like red berries. It was refreshing, easy to drink, bright and fruity, but with a nice balance of acidity. Delivered as promised.

Better this than a poorly made Merlot or Pinot Noir. This is 100% quality Gamay.

If you are cash-poor for Pinot Noir, use Beaujolais as an alternative - $15-$20 will get you a very good bottle.

Cheers!