Caprice Bistro: Vegetarian options in Wilmington's best French restaurant

Frequently voted the best French restaurant in Wilmington, NC, Caprice Bistro serves bistro fare and atmosphere (read: simple, well-priced, fresh food in a comfortable, elegant setting).

In a narrow two-story building near the downtown waterfront, crepes bubble and bottles of good French wine are poured. Upstairs, a hip sofa bar serves cocktail concoctions and refined bar food against a backdrop of rotating local art for sale.

A couple finishes off a bottle of pinot noir and diners linger over coffee and profiteroles. Hardwood floors, lace curtains, and gilded mirrors over a long banquette on one wall lend a sophisticated European air. The service is attentive, professional, and friendly in a reserved way.

Chef Theirry Moity grew up in France. He owned Cafe de Bruxelles of New York City's West Village and Charlotte, NC's Patou before opening Caprice Bistro. He and his wife Patricia believe that French food doesn't have to be intimidating. The result is a little black dress type restaurant. It can be dressed up or down, special occasion treat or Wednesday night dinner.

Although not a dedicated vegetarian restaurant, the menu offers many vegetarian selections with some vegan modifications.

Although sliced baguette is offered upon arrival, pay $2.95 for the Pommes Frites (french fries). The baguette is dense and chewy, lacking a crisp crust. The fries, however, are delicious- fresh and hand-cut, served in a silver canister with homemade mayonnaise.

The tomato tartin is one of, if not the best dish at Caprice Bistro. And it just happens to be vegetarian. The tartin is served hot, a small and substantial crust layered with creamy goat cheese, bright bursts of tomato, smoky kalamata olives, fresh basil, and a savory-sweet balsamic glaze. Vegans- try to gilch some of the balsamic glaze for your baguette if someone orders it at your table. Or drink it from a spoon.

The salads are a wonderful accompaniment to entrees. Or order one with an appetizer for a meal. The produce is fresh and combined thoughtfully, allowing true flavors to shine without complication. The Salade de Chicon is a stand-out and an easily-modifiable vegan dish. Belgian endive, walnuts, red beets, and red beet dressing are a complete dish even without the listed goat cheese addition.

The Veggie Crepe is always a popular choice, although not a vegan dish due to the inclusion of eggs. Watch out for the risotto; it's cooked in chicken stock.

I particularly recommend the Pasta Primavera. The homemade sauce over fettucine is consistently delicious and balanced: just the right amount of tomato, julienned vegetables, and herbs. Request no parmesan if you're vegan.

The pasta primavera is also one of the dishes featured in the recession-friendly 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. menu at the bar in the upstairs sofa lounge. During those magical hours, all of the entrees on the bar menu are $5.

For dessert, vegans and vegetarians can both enjoy the sorbet. The other dessert dishes are all vegetarian-friendly. The profiteroles, a trio of banana, chocolate, and strawberry in a puff of crunchy, light pastry, are reminiscent of the restaurant itself: classic, approachable, and satisfying.

10 Market Street (Historic Downtown), Wilmington, NC; (910) 815-0810; capricebistro.com

Atmosphere: Warm and inviting bistro and upstairs sofa bar filled with all ages.

Recommended dishes: Pasta, Crepes, Salads, Soups

Wine list: Mostly French extensive wine selection, interesting bottled beers, and one draft beer: Stella Artois. Full ABC license.

Price range: Appetizers, $3 to $9; soups and salads, $4.50 to $9; Entrees: $9 to $19. ($5 bar menu Sunday to Thursday from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.)

Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday to midnight.

Reservations: Accepted, but not required.

Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express.

Wheelchair Access: Restaurant on ground level, second-level sofa bar only accessible by steps.