Part Four: Bragging rights on Fort Bragg

Pink rhododendrons at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens (Photo: Ed Uyeshima)

If Mendocino is the Cinderella of the Northern California coast, then Fort Bragg has the unfair reputation of being the fat, ugly stepsister who moaned uncontrollably when the prince attempted to shove the glass slipper onto her bulbous foot. However, as plain-faced as it may appear on the surface, Fort Bragg offers charms of its own that have nothing to do with its more press-savvy neighbor ten miles to the south. Historically a blue-collar lumber town with a recent trend toward luring more tourism dollars, it is the largest coastal town between San Francisco and Eureka and offers a unique blend of the familiar and the unexpected.

Fort Bragg’s chief must-see sight has to be the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, surely one of the state’s most appealing and versatile botanical gardens. For a ten-dollar admission, you can stroll through wild pine forests, lush rhododendron dells, and fields of native grasses with flecks of wildflower color. Even during the winter, the grounds are still a worthwhile visit simply because of their unbeatable location on the cliffs above the Pacific. You can hear the crash of the Pacific waves and may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a passing whale. Make sure to take the controls of the model train on the property because you can simulate the experience of the Skunk Train ride (described below) if the real thing isn’t running. 

Samples from Glass Beach (Photo: Ed Uyeshima)

Years of pounding wave action have deposited tons of polished glass onto what is appropriately called Glass Beach, unique in how beauty can be yielded from one of man's careless mistakes. Beginning in 1949, the area around Glass Beach became a public dump. Well before environmentalism took hold, residents threw refuse straight into the ocean - anything from garbage to old cars. Toxic items were finally banned in the early 1960’s, and it wasn’t until 1967 that the North Coast Water Quality Board finally decided to plan for a public dump away from the surf. What remains on the beach are tons of polished glass, mostly in shades of green, amber and white. Be aware that it is forbidden to keep the glass bits since it is part of a protected state park.

Cliffs off the Ten-Mile Hike (Photo: Ed Uyeshima)

Between March and October, consider a leisurely trip on the Skunk Train. Originally a logging train through the dense redwood forests, it runs forty miles from Fort Bragg along the Noyo River and ultimately reaches Willits on US Highway 101. Along the way, you cross thirty bridges and trestles and pass through two deep mountain tunnels. Be aware that a roundtrip to Northspur, the half-way point to Willits, takes approximately 3-1/2 hours. However, it’s a nice family outing when the weather is nice, and the open-topped cars are quite a treat when available. Trains leave at 10AM daily, and you should make reservations beforehand..