I arrived in the village of Teotitlán del Valle just in time for the Day of the Dead celebrations --November 1st & 2nd. I was traveling with a film crew for Starr Interiors' Line of the Spirit™ weaving collection (Taos, New Mexico).
This being fiesta preparation time, I got to watch a village matron, Alta Gracia, who was featured in the film, fire up several barbecue pits with sizzling goat meat to be sold to the neighbors for the celebrations. I was invited to attend the family’s pre-fiesta feast where I enjoyed barbecued meat served with several of her homemade sauces, ranging from mild, but tasty, to raging hot. It was an unforgettable meal, a meal that in itself would have made the trip worthwhile, and it whet my appetite for the actual Dias le los Muertos, Day of the Dead, fiesta, for which I saw preparations being made all around.
The market hummed with fiesta activity and the sound of people speaking Zapotec. Everywhere were flowers – especially marigolds, the favorite for Day of the Dead. There was sugar cane, special breads – some with small ceramic heads imbedded in them and some with words welcoming the dead, sugar skulls--everything needed to prepare the altar to entice the difuntos, or deceased, to return.
Adjacent to the market is a church that the Spanish built atop a Zapotec temple. Part of the temple is visible, and many stones in the church have ancient Zapotec symbols – deities and glyphs – carved in them, the same symbols that appear in many of the rug designs by the master weavers of Teotitlán.
For Day of the Dead, each family decorates its altar (which is a focal point for the home year round) with candles, flowers, food and photographs of departed relatives in anticipation of their return. They also set up a small altar nearby to commemorate the children who have died.
Church bells rang in the afternoon of the first day of the festival, announcing the arrival of the departed children. The next day the children leave and the adult difunctos come to visit the living.
In the evening of day two, I joined the revelers in the village cemetery to party with the difuntos who had left their loved ones’ houses and spirited to the cemetery, where a lively fiesta was going on with mariachi bands playing and plenty of mescal, beer and soda to drink..
The festivities lasted well into the night, when the difuntos finally departed for another year and another celebration of death and life. “Sin la muerte no seria vida.” Without death there would be no life.
LOCATION
The closest airport in the area is the Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX) located about 15 miles west of Teotitlán del Valle in Oaxaca City, Mexico.
Continental has daily flights to Oaxaca City from its Houston hub.
Teotitlán del Valle is 15 miles (24 kilometers) southeast of Oaxaca City. Public transportation, taxis and tours are available from Oaxaca City.
BEST TIME TO GO
A perfect time to visit the area is during the Day of the Dead, which is held during the last days of October and first days of November.
WHERE TO EAT
Tlamanalli
World renowned traditional Zapotec cuisine. Praised in the NY Times, Saveur, Fodor’s and others.
On the main street, Avenida Juárez #39
Phone: 52 (951) 524-4006
Open in the afternoons from 1-4pm, and closed on Mondays and Thursdays.
Credit cards are not accepted.
El Descanso
Good healthy, traditional Mexican and Zapotec food. They also have a weaving and gift shop.
Avenida Juárez #51
Phone: 52 (951) 524-4152
Open every day.
WHERE TO STAY IN THE VILLAGE
El Descanso has some bungalows. Inquire at the restaurant.
Las Granadas Bed and Breakfast
Affordable accommodations
They host a 2-day immersion program for intermediate Spanish language students.
2 de Abril #9
52 (951) 524-4232
Email: lasgranadasoaxaca@gmail.com
Website: www.lasgranadasoaxaca.com
Casa Sagrada
At the top of the Hill (Cerro Sagrado) overlooking the Village
They offer on-going half-day excursions for both residential guests and for visitors. These include: cooking classes & excursions, horseback riding adventures, traditional healing arts, cultural explorations, and guided hiking excursions.
Phone: From the USA or Canada: (310) 455-6085
Within Mexico: 01 (951) 516-4275
Website: www.casasagrada.com
MORE INFORMATION
MEXICO TOURISM BOARD:
Phone: (800) 44 MEXICO (446-3942) (for brochures) or (310) 282-9112, Website: Wensite: www.visitmexico.com
OAXACA TOURISM:
Website: www.oaxaca-travel.com
Comments
Neat pictures and great info. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Patty!
great article! I want to go!
but the link to Las Granadas doesn't work!
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