Alabama Chanin appliqué swing coat from the Songbirds collection made from organic cotton.
The previous decade ended with a credit bubble that burst, freezing purchasing power that kept the fashion industry's garment racks rolling. The 10s have begun with a paradigm shift on consumerism. "Rethink" one of the 3 themes from the current show "Ethics + Aesthestics = Sustainable Fashion" curated by Francesca Granata and Sarah Scaturro promotes a slower tempo for fashion shown at Pratt Manhattan Gallery.
Before the recession, collections that ship 5-6 groups a season in a 3 month cycle, need to perform on the selling floors within a few weeks before new designs begin to crowd departments that may result in markdowns. The Times reported in 2008 that the rise of disposable fashion contributed to landfills leaving little to recycle from often used synthetic textiles. Since the beginning of the "new normal" economy, designers and retailers have reconsidered the scope of their businesses, creating edited presentations and sharper inventories.
"Reduce, Revalue, and Rethink" the 3 major themes that equal the exhibition's solution, builds on the established sustainable practices. Recycled, renewable, and organic fibers with the employment of fair labor have become integrated in fashion, with labels such as Loomstate, Alabama Chanin and John Patrick Organic. Ethics + Aesthetics is the first American exhibition to investigate the work of artists and designers exploring sustainable practices in the fashion system. Not only the ecological mantra, but the knowledge and emotional engagement toward clothing as the Slow Food Movement promotes a richer interaction.
"While the concepts of recycling and using organic materials are quite familiar in fashion, we are seeking to broaden the definition of what constitutes sustainable fashion by exploring ideas such as modularity, minimalism, and memory," explain the curators.
"Revalue" another of the exhibition's themes, categorizes the label SUNO by Max Osterweis into the upcycling movement. An example posted to the left, incorporates vintage Kangas, traditional Kenyan textiles, repurposed into his designs which are produced by local craftspeople in workshops near Nairobi and in New York City's garment center. These hybrid designs may begin to affect positive economic change that employs and trains local talent.
Join the free panel discussion at Pratt Manhattan Gallery in conjunction with the exhibition at 6 p.m. on Tuesday, January 26 in Lecture Hall 213 at 144 West 14th Street. Confirmed panelists include Julie Gilhart, senior vice president, fashion director of Barneys New York; Mary Ping, designer and founder of Slow and Steady Wins the Race; Caroline Priebe, designer and founder of Uluru. The panel will be moderated by “Ethics + Aesthetics” guest curators Francesca Granata and Sarah Scaturro. “Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion” is on view now through February 20, 2010.
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