A recent attempt to hike into Paradise Lake was impeded by deep snow so the trip was aborted at the lovely Peter Grubb Hut, which offered a pleasing alternative, though not as much of a workout. This summer, which still looks a lot like spring, offers some challenges in the backcountry with deep snowdrifts and skill-testing route finding.
Paradise Lake, located six miles from the trailhead on Highway 80 proved to be too much for the persistent snows of the season. The Peter Grubb hut, just 2.5 miles in, offered plenty of snow crossings but the trail was at least obvious enough to follow for the most part.
We had spoken to the ranger at the Truckee Ranger Station when we picked up our campfire permit, who informed us that thru-hikers were getting through the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) despite encountering snow.
We expected to find some snow drifts on the north-facing slopes but were surprised to find snow on the trail almost immediately. The snow held our weight so there was no tiring post-holing to contend with but did require some alertness on inclines.
Departing from the trailhead off the north side of the Castle Peak/Boreal Ridge exit east of Soda Springs we shouldered our packs and set off, attempting to stay on the correct trail as snow obscured some sections and other trails branched off of it. At about 0.5 miles we stayed left at a fork in the road. About 100 yards before the ridge the PCT intersected, and we stayed on the PCT the rest of the day.
At the top of the ridge we found an obvious trail marker announcing the Castle Pass, affording excellent views over the ridge into the Round Valley, and on our right, the ragged cliffs of Castle Peak. Heading north-northeast, on our right, was a trail to Castle Peak, but we stayed on the PCT, dropping down the other side of the ridge, traversing north and heading down slope. We soon lost the trail under the snow, but continued down the slope toward the meadow, slipping and sliding.
We quickly spotted the Peter Grubb Hut nestled on the edge of the forest at the south end of the meadow. We traipsed toward the hut, picking our way through miniature undulating snow hollows and peaks, noting skunk cabbage and wildflowers anxiously poking through their icy chambers seeking the warming rays of the sun.
The Peter Grubb hut, a 2 story shingled hut built of stone and wood with sharply peaked roof, a ladder to the second story to provide winter access, is sparsely furnished. A wood stove provides warmth on cold nights, while a picnic table and solar powered lights encourage group socializing. The upstairs is lined, dormitory style, with thin, well-worn mattress pads.
After having some lunch at the hut we packed up and tried to get back on the trail. We tramped around in circles, following footsteps of others as confused as we. Out came the compass, map, the GPS, the text from the trail description. We squinted at the direction finders, the sun, the terrain features, scratched our heads and knew that while the GPS could tell us that we were virtually on top the trail the snow would prevent us from easily finding our destination. We looked back at the sundrenched meadow, the granite glinting in the light and decided right then and there that weren’t going to have repeat of last year’s fiasco (see To Hell(hole) and Back—the Worst Backpacking Trip Ever) and we plunked our packs down in a lovely dell behind the hut and called it a day.
That settled, we spend the rest of the afternoon hiking all around the area feeling light as a feather without our heavy packs on. We got a good feeling for the landmarks around the area and the general direction of where the PCT likely is, all good information for later in the year when we can tackle the trail again.
We spent a quiet evening watching the sun throw alpenglow across the granite face, the amphitheater continuing to entertain as the colors deepened and shadows gathered. We pitched out tent, made a crackling fire and listened to the happy voices filling the Peter Grubb hut, which became a collection station for stymied PCT hikers looking for the trail.
The good thing about this area is that once you get the lay of the land and identify several of the most obvious landmarks, such as Castle Peak and Basin Peak it’s pretty hard to get dangerously lost, even if you’re not on the trail. We’re looking forward to exploring more of this area when summer finally starts. That may be in August or September this year, unless it turns into the summer that never was.
Getting There:
To reach North Lake Tahoe from San Francisco by car (approximately 4 hours, depending on traffic and weather):
• Take Interstate 80 east (stay on 80 through Sacramento).
• Exit at Castle Peak/Boreal Ridge exit (just before the Truckee exit)
• Proceed to the north side of the highway (other side of the freeway from Boreal)
• Drive 2/10 mile up a paved road and park along the road. There is a turnaround spot near a signpost with a map
Campfire permit
A free Campfire Permit and information about current fire restrictions are available from any Ranger Station or California Dept. of Forestry office, including the Truckee Ranger District. More information can be found at the USDA Forest Service website (http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/tahoe/recreation/index.shtml)
Truckee Ranger District (note new location in 2010)
10811 Stockrest Springs Road
Truckee CA 96161
800-679-6775
530-426-3632
Peter Grubb Hut
Reservations and information available through the Sierra Club and at Clair Tappan Lodge
800-679-6775
530-426-3632
Trail Guide Book
The Tahoe Sierra, A Natural History Guide to 112 Hikes in the Northern Sierra by Jeffrey P. Schaffer
By Inga Aksamit, Inga's Adventures
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