Restaurant Cassis: Where's My Ambre Solaire?

Sauteed Chanterelle Mushrooms in Puff Pastry. 

From the time I crossed over the threshold at Cassis, I knew I had crossed into a different hemisphere. Welcome to the Riviera --  a la Chez Meloni!
 
    The Meloni brothers: Jerome and Stephane run this marvelous piece de resistance on the corner of Sutter and Steiner in Pacific Heights! Right from the Parisian bartender to the French waiters, to sauve Jerome Meloni who runs the front of the house, to the very capable hands of Chef Stephane Meloni who handles the stoves, everything is very definitely on another continent! This enables the brothers Meloni to envelope their clientele in Riviera mystique from the word: "Bienvenue!" (Welcome).
 
    I almost reached into my bag to check for my Ambre Solaire (a popular French suntan lotion), but instead I was handed a menu by Jerome Meloni. The list is quite extensive for what it is and when you consider the realms of cuisine that it criss-crosses (Southern French and over-the-border Italian Riviera cuisine) you begin to realize just what a gem you have encountered. You will not find this combination at any other French restaurant in town. This is unique and it is understandable if neighborhood customers do not want their secret to become public knowledge.
 
    The decor continues the Riviera illusion: smart and chic, but at the same time it has that Riviera je ne sais quoi about it. I felt ensconced in my favorite French resort (Nice) and basked in the warmth of welcome created by the Meloni clan.
 
    The menu is chock full of surprises and warm Southern French hospitality oozes from every selection. What to choose? We started with the cheese plate. We were not disappointed, these were hearty portions of strong flavored cheeses. It was beautifully plated and presented with orange segments and garnishes. My companion and I dug in heartily.
 
    Next, our host Jerome suggested we try his favorite pizza, La Forestiere (Chanterelle Mushrooms and white truffle oil and interesting French cheeses instead of the usual mozzarella). It was absolutely marvelous. The strong French cheeses stood up well to the thin, crisp crusted pizza and provided a creamy counterpoint to the earthy notes of the chanterelles and white truffle oil.
 
    Everything was well presented. Our pizza sat atop a perch in the middle of our table a deux, which somewhat resembled a lamp shade frame, but it was an elegant way to utilize the table space, without limiting one's ability to carry on a conversation.
 
    I chose the Filet Mignon for my main course, which came well plated and topped with seared foie gras and served with a green peppercorn sauce and garbanzo bean flour fries. "Back, back, you'll have to come and get your own filet mignon," I cried. Fortunately for me, my companion always minds her manners and did not utilize her "boarding house reach" to "acquire" her portion of my meal! She was enjoying her own, splendidly prepared Loch Duart Salmon served in a Paloise Sauce with Leek Mashed Potatoes, so she smiled sweetly and just ignored me. You will have to come and look on-line at www.restaurantcassis.com at the menu section and choose your dishes ahead of time. There are so many mouth-watering choices, a party could not be blamed for taking an inordinate amount of time to choose an item.
 
   For dessert, my companion chose the Warm Molten Chocolate Cake of Valrhona Chocolate (which the kitchen requests 10 minutes to prepare). It arrived and there should have been a little trumpet fanfare. The presentation was breathtaking! A beautifully decorated plate with the molten chocolate core effusing out onto the plate in the center of numerous bursts of sweetened creme fraiche and spoons full of different items to try with this fabulous and decadent concoction. At this point, it is understood that Chef Stephane will probably receive nightly proposals of marriage after consumption of such an incredible dessert. In France, there is a saying, that if you get a larger portion, you have a lover in the kitchen! Pas ce soir, mon ami!
 
    The wine list, although small, is well chosen and more than adequate, as if chosen by a family friend while preparing your meal. I made two choices: the Woop Woop Verdelho (Australia) $7.75/glass and the Piper-Heidsieck Champagne, (France) 180 ml. $17 which yielded two glasses and was good value.
 
    Cassis is featuring a special prix fixe menu Sun-Thurs 5:30 - 7 p.m., for $25, as well as a slightly more expensive version for the Dine About Town menu.  Either way, you will be spoilt for choice and will want to come back for more. It's a lot cheaper than getting on a plane for Nice and you can always get a taxi or bus (stops right outside the door) home. This would be my pick  for a romantic Valentine's Day dinner.

  Cassis Restaurant: 2121 Sutter Street (x Steiner), San Francisco. Phone: (415) 440-4500. For more info: www.restaurantcassis.com. Dine About Town menu special, available Jan. 15-31 only, $34.95 prix fixe. Contact restaurant for more information about their Valentine Day's special.