Falcon Lake, part 4 - the ghost town of Guerrero Viejo

The partially restored church at Guerrero Viejo

The International Falcon Lake sealed the fate of the once-glorious colonial city of Guerrero Viejo.  From its ornate, European-styled woodwork and stone carvings, to the town’s suspension bridge, Guerrero Viejo was destined to descend beneath the waters of the lake.  No longer the popular resort city of its past, Guerrero Viejo was the loser in a struggle for water in this arid region.

By 1953 the Mexican government had forcibly removed all but a handful of the residents of Guerrero Viejo, and relocated them to the nearby newly-built town of Nueva Guerrero, 15 miles away and at the base of the Falcon Dam.

As Falcon Lake filled, Ancient Guerrero descended beneath the waters of the lake until only the peaks of the tallest buildings were visible. 

Decades of drought later, and the lake levels fell.  Like something from an old science fiction movie, Guerrero Viejo began to reappear.

Much of the town is well preserved.  The magnificent church has even been repainted by a local group, although the water level has since risen enough that the church is again partially underwater.

The Grand Hotel still stands.

This isn’t a stop for the meek.  To drive to Ancient Guerrero start at Nueva Guerrero and drive about 15 miles on Rt. 2.  Look for the hand-painted sign directing you to Guerrero Viejo.  You will be driving down gravel roads for about 45 minutes.  Follow the signs, and don’t forget to close the gates.  Finally, unless the lake is very low, you are likely to come to a body of water.  Take a hard look at the photos – I was able to drive through with a Land Rover and I ran into some guys that had successfully waded across with a Japanese SUV of some sort.  But if in doubt, consider getting out of your vehicle and wading the water to see how deep it is – I did. 

The good news is that the road is hard packed and there are no holes in it, so as long as you stay on the roadway you won’t have any traction problems.

There may or may not be a gatekeeper at the entrance.  He wasn’t there when we visited in the Fall of 2008.  If he is there, expect to pay a nominal sum to enter.

Guerrero Viejo is one of those great semi-official relics of Mexico.  The tourism folks are starting to promote it a bit and even do some repairs, as long as the water level remains low.  Few folks, even Mexican folks, are aware of the history of this town, or of its existence as a ghost town.

       --PirateJohn—

John@PirateJohn.com

 For more info: