Be prepared to wait. The John Dory Oyster Bar does not take reservations. Do not show up with an incomplete party, for you will not be sat. The supposed problem at the first incarnation of Chef April Bloomfield and Co-Owner Ken Friedman's John Dory, which was located further south and closer to the pair's The Spotted Pig, was the restaurant's location and resulting lack of foot traffic. Now situated in a space adjacent to the celebrity and hipster frequented lobby of The Ace Hotel, on the corner of 29th and Broadway, foot traffic is heavy and ever-present. The hostess mentioned that the average wait time for dinner dining is an hour, so be prepared to slurp down Sasha Petraske designed cocktails and some well picked Blue Point bivalves. In an odd way, part of the experience, an experience that ends up being a good and justifiably memorable one, turns out to be the wait itself, standing among New York's hopeful elite and praying for a table right alongside them.
The scene at the bar is lively, but not rawkus, just as the music is loud, but not overbearing. The Cucumber Rickey, a gin rickey with the addition of cucumber infusion, the Bottlerocket, a jalapeno margarita of sorts topped with the balancing agent of honey, and the April Bloomfizz, a type of "kitchen sink" cocktail with an aftertaste of grapefruit, are all winners and were greatly admired by those who imbibed. The Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA and the cheaper pale ale offering of Butternuts Snaphead are, as always, reliable brews that leave the palette clean. Unsurprisngly, part of the charm of the seemingly perpetually packed and slightly cramped dining room is the alcohol-centric, party advocated vibe - it's damn fun. After awhile, one is tempted to order at the bar, feeling as if being seated may ruin the buzz that has finally been achieved, yet the hostess eventually comes over and the culinary part of the evening begins.
The John Dory's menu is broken down into Raw Bar, Crudo, Bar Snacks, Small Plates, and Desserts. Not to worry, a full meal is easily constructed from said categories. This structure makes sense, almost as if Bloomfield and company had chosen to arrange the food in this manner in order to reflect the idiosyncratic nature of the space itself and to encourage the communal atmosphere which fuels much of the restaurant's success. First up, the namesake oysters must be ordered and both east and west coast varietals are uniformly excellent, briny and filled with flavor. Each successive dish that was sampled achieved a success in its own right, beginning with the unfortunately miniscule crab and avocado, a fresh if not particularly creative evocation of the classic combination. The oyster pan roast, a carryover from the the first John Dory and a sometimes special at Bloomfield's other restaurant and other Ace establishment The Breslin, is a stunner. Simply compiled, the dish is composed of oysters, their juice, a bunch of tarragon, and a heaping of heavy cream, accompanied by the astonishing crostini topped with uni, the butter of the sea. Both soups that were sampled, the crab and coconut and the clam and bacon acquanotta (which literally translates as "cooked water") were elegant and not overdone or muddled. For a chef like Bloomfield, most noted for her work with rich flavors, offal, and stuffed pig's trotters, this food shows off a new pedigree, a new desire to let ingredients shine. For instance, the burrata is simply topped with deep fried squash and pesto, allowing the cheese itself to effect the forefront of the diner's palette in the best way imaginable. Best of all though is the chorizo stuffed squid, lightly charred and placed atop a broth of smoked tomato and white beans. The squid is perfectly cooked, tender to a fork's touch and placed in perfect harmony with the surrounding elements. It is both a delicate and powerful dish, one worth ordering on numerous occasions.
April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman have come dangerously close to diagnosing exactly what the new breed of New York diners want - a place to be seen and a place to eat food that just might merit what the diner is being charged. It is to the chef's credit that Bloomfield is not working within the heavy, cream and butter based realm of culinary endeavors that her other restaurants epitomize. For anyone looking for a casual, albeit lengthy meal that incorporates good cocktails and great food along with a room that buzzes with both anticipation and a certain confidence, The John Dory Oyster Bar is a must.
P.S. - While the waiter will attempt to push the housemade Parker House Rolls with any menu offering that is ordered, they are far and beyond well worth their $4.50 price tag, providing an ample and buttery solution to sopping up any liquid that remains on a bowl or plate.
The John Dory Oyster Bar - www.thejohndory.com
The Ace Hotel, 1196 Broadway (29th Street); 212-792-9000
Raw Bar $3 to $5; bar snacks $3.50 to $11; small plates $4 to $17
Hours - Seven days a week, noon to 2 a.m
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