Nat King Cole, Harry Belafonte, Celia Cruz, Sammy Davis Junior, Ella Fitzgerald, Martin Gaye, Tito Puente, Carmen Miranda, Frank Sinatra, Donna Summer—these are just some of the marquee names that have played The Copacabana, the iconic club that opened on East 60th Street in the 1940’s and has enjoyed a legacy like few other New York City nightspots. Once the playground of the see-and-be-seen, the infamous “Copa,” as it was called, has seen its share of hardships over the years, but the beloved club continues to rise from the ashes time and time again. After a four-year hiatus, The Copa has reopened in the former China Club space on West 47th Street as The Copacabana Supper Club. With a shiny new multi-story space and Chef Alex Rodriguez of Calle Ocho lineage at the helm of the dining program, The Copa looks to regain some of its past luster.
On entry into The Copacabana Supper Club, nostalgic details remind guests of the club’s heyday—a stained glass mosaic of the 1945 Copa girl with fruit piled high atop her head and the original white plaster palm trees. Colors like red, silver, and gold add to the glam feeling of yesteryear, and you can almost imagine Diana Ross and the Supremes rubbing shoulders with Liza Minelli and Smokey Robinson as The Copacabana All-Stars present salsa classics from a full seven-piece band.
A native of Cuba, Chef Garcia has worked alongside Chef Douglas Rodriguez at Yuca Miami and favorite Patria in New York, before opening Calle Ocho on Manhattan’s Upper West Side (which will relocate to a new space later this year) on his own. “I’ve spent the past two decades educating diners about Latin culture through its cuisine. I’ve done Nuevo Latino. This is Anejo Latino,” says Garcia of his work at The Copacabana Supper Club.
A culinary tour of the many cultures and cuisines of the world’s Latin countries, Garcia’s menu emphasizes each region’s authentic dishes—irresistible favorites from thirteen countries including Ecuador, Puerto Rico, Peru, and Mexico. Every dish we sampled delivered in flavor and presentation. Clearly, Garcia aspires to maintain the reputation of the legendary club that now houses his kitchen.
To start, the Ceviche de Camarones, a traditional Ecuadorian shrimp ceviche is doused in tangy tomato sauce and garnished with requisite popcorn, while the sweet honey-based Chicharrón de Calamares from the Dominican Republic is a sticky, crispy indulgence, and easily won the vote as our table’s favorite. The Costa Rican Palmito, or hearts of palm salad with beets and passion fruit dressing was a lighter option with less punch for those who prefer to play it safe, while the Ceviche Negro with squid ink from Panama drew raves from the more adventurous. For me, the two standouts were the simple raw dishes: a Tiradito of fluke garnished with jalapeños from Peru, and the Atún (tuna) laced with coconut, ginger and tomatoes from Honduras.
For entrees, our resident vegetarian devoured the Peruvian Tacu Tacu, or sweet plantain dumpling with black beans and spinach, leaving little to be sampled by the group—not always the case with vegetarian dishes. The Brazilian Moqueca, or fried cod and shrimp in a decadent coconut sauce set my taste buds soaring, while those opting for a simpler dish should order Mexico’s Pescado Veracruzano, a grilled branzino with a traditional sauce of olives, tomatoes and capers. Another Mexican highlight was Tres Moles, a chicken roasted in a rainbow of the country’s thick yellow, green, and red moles. However, the Dominican Republic’s Rabo Encendido was, hands-down, the winner of the night. This spicy oxtail, rice and beans combination triumphs not only for taste but for the self-mocking presentation—an old school Goya can full of meaty deliciousness offset by sweet plantains.
You can’t go wrong with desserts—we sampled them all—but if you’re looking for just one or two to round out your meal, opt for the decadent, guilty pleasure found in Garcia’s own Cuban chocolate Empanadas, or the most traditional of Latin desserts: Colombian Flan.
In addition to the ambitious menu, The Copacabana Supper Club boasts an extensive collection with over 100 rums including Zacapa Centernario, Brugal Siglo de Oro, El Dorado 21 years old Special Reserve, and Matusalem Gran Reserva 18 year old. The wine list features small producers from South America and Spain.
Later this year, the Copacabana's rooftop tapas bar (food also by Garcia), will open along with a fifth-floor VIP room. For those more interested in dancing, Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays are "Latin nights" anchored by the nightclub.
Copacabana Supper Club
268 West 47th Street
@ 8th Avenue
212-239-2672
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