What is bound to become an immensely popular East Valley sports restaurant will introduce a new menu selection on Super Bowl Sunday at their first annual Super Bowl Watch.
That Place, an outstanding replacement for the venerable LJ's Pizza on east Main street in Mesa, will unveil a fresh new take on a southwestern standard, the fish taco, during the viewing of Super Bowl XLIV on Sunday.
When LJ's abandoned the family-owned venue, one more Mesa eatery followed in the wake of Matta's, an east Main fixture that is missing from an increasingly sparse east Mesa dining scene, it seemed that the decline of options was irreversible in the face of the economic recession.
That Place changed everything, although Mesa hasn't quite realized it.
Ostensibly a sports grill--and it excels at that, with six seriously big mega-high-res-pixel flat screens strategically place around the dining area and bar--That Place is much more than your father's sports grill.
It's a small miracle on main street in Mesa, and here's why:
Ambiance.
The kitschy, sometimes claustrophobic layout of LJ's is long gone. The serve-your-self pizza and salad bar that defined LJ's has been replaced with an open area that simplifies the traffic of the attentive table staff while unifying the space. The walls that formerly divided the available floor space into compartmentalized cells have been reduced to half walls, giving one a sense of casual community.
With a few simple changes, That Place has transformed the interior of the building into an inviting, esthetic ambiance that is simply enjoyable to be in. "It's like being at home, only better." says manager William Wu.
Decor.
The dining area is mercifully devoid of the locker room overkill of the hard core sports bar. On Super Bowl Sunday, you can mainline SB XLVI from four of the big screens, but on any other day of the year you can enjoy good food in blue-collar elegance. The feel of the place is just that much better than staying home that going out feels special, however not so much so that you feel compelled to dress up.
In the newly defined bar area in the back of the restaurant is a tasteful portrait of arguably the greatest sports icon to be associated with Arizona,the towering, grimacing figure of World Series co-MVP and legend of the late innings of the seventh game, Randy Johnson, delivering a precision 100mp fast ball down the throat of some hapless batter. In our imagination, it's Derek Jeeter, about to take his third swipe, followed by a seat on the bench. (Randy, if you read this, stop by some random Tuesday afternoon and give these guys an autograph.) Next to that is a framed Gonzo jersey in the old-school home dark scheme.
If you want to argue Johnson's status in this writer's eyes, there is no need. The memorabilia also includes a Pat Tillman jersey, Kurt Warner back to pass and Kobe in full flight, about a half-second short of a brutally accurate slam-dunk.
These guys know their sports and, like the atmosphere and the food, they showcase the best without making a big deal about it.
Great Food.
It takes some restraint to keep from calling it cuisine, it's that good. Like the new environment the menu is outstanding without being pretentious. Simply the finest chow you are going to bite into from Country Club to Apache Junction. And I'd take the west boundary all the way to Monte's if it weren't for the Landmark on west Main.
Manager William Wu claims no formal culinary training, which seems implausible once you have eaten there. He was an engineer by training and profession, including a stint at the General Motors test track. He attributes the quality of the eats to an uncanny ability to taste something once and understand how to reproduce the flavor. Perhaps it is simply ingredient engineering, but whatever the case, the food is way above average for a sports bar and thus it's better to think of That Place as a restaurant with a sports theme.
The concoctions are complex and deftly balanced flavors. One of the things you notice about the hamburgers is the bun, a fully rounded affair that complements the ingredients nicely. Wu enjoys mixing flavor fundamentals in just the right blend, a little sweet and a little sour, a bit of tart and something subtle.
Super Bowl Watch I.
That Place will introduce a new item during the clash between the Patriots and the Giants, their special take on the fish taco. For eight bucks, you get three of these delights. The side garnish is a healthy dollop of sour cream which is best added judiciously to balance the salsa that also comes with the dish. And the salsa is the prime example of what makes That Place a special place to grab a quick bite or enjoy a meal. It has a sophistication that raises it above the usual salsa and compliments the fish and slaw better than anything this writer has tasted, which covers a lot of ground.
This nuance, whatever clever balance of flavors Wu manages to achieve, is evident across the entire menu. The chicken soup is better than home-made. The pizza sauce complements the usual list of ingredients with low-key quality. Everything on the menu is done well. The pie is in the New York style, just soft enough that you can fold a piece and enjoy that first bite of the tip without loosing the topping to the plate.
The 'Cheers' factor.
What you can't see nor taste is what truly makes That Place one of the secret delights of the east valley and that is the casual atmosphere. After the second time you patronize the establishment, you begin to feel as sense that this is the kind of watering hole that still has that intangible conviviality that makes showing up to see who else is there a fun part of life.
Wu is at once the attentive host, the consummate chief and the engaging raconteur. His personality could not be more well suited to the role and it sets the tone for the discreet but consistent service of the staff.
The service goes above just getting an order out on time, done to perfection and no more. Order a burger with provolone and he will suggest that his mushrooms, sautéed in his special sauce would complement nicely. I love the wings but mused that it was a shame that a honey-mustard variety was not on the menu. It's not, but that did not prevent the manager-chef from devising a balanced sauce on the fly and offering a half dozen as an off-the-menu option.
Wu knows his sports and can banter stats and performance with the best of them. For that matter, he knows many of the personalities that provide the decor from his prior experience catering high-profile events around the valley. He once hosted the Great Gretzky in a private dinner at his sushi establishment. Therein lies a story and if you ask, he'll tell you, one of many interesting tales of an interesting life.
Born in Taiwan, Wu cut his teeth on american culture watching Butch and Sundance evade the Pinkerton's on the big screen at the local cinema. He'd have followed his father into the military but was deterred and came to Southern California for his education. It was SoCal's loss and the Valley's gain when he moved here over a decade ago.
The net result of the careful balance of ambiance, service, cuisine and hospitality make That Place a standout addition to the Mesa restaurant scene. If you have not settled on a venue to watch Brady and the Patriots beat the Giants in Super Bowl XLVI, then consider joining the gang down at That Place for Super Bowl Watch I which looks to become an east valley tradition. If you have a party planned, give them a call and ask about catering your gathering. The food is truly super.
As to UFO's and aliens, Wu makes no claim in that regard but says there will be a strick human-only policy for Super Bowl Watch I. The closest you might come to that subject would be a close encounter with the Phoenix UFO Examiner. I'm going for the fish tacos and the party atmosphere. You might want the Caveman special pizza, given the nature of the game on the big screen.
Perhaps I'll see you there.
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