Sweet's on seafood in Tequesta

"Restaurant Row" has a new face in an old place on U.S. 1.

Sweet's has taken over where Grassy Flats used to be, in the Beall's/Stein Mart plaza. The nautical decor hasn't changed much, but the menu's been tweaked a bit.

Tropical fish sculptures and cool colors are still in evidence, though the partition between the bar and dining area is now a solid wall. The patio is still available, nicely lit and shaded for use even on the warmest nights. As for the menu: you can get a burger, steak or a turkey club sandwich here, but the emphasis is definitely on seafood.

With The Dining Companion on this night, the meal started with crab bisque and a complimentary basket of chips and salsa. The bisque was creamy, briny without excess salt, and full of shredded crab, corn, scallions and a slight pepper bite. The chips were the commercial type; thin but good quality and fresh. The house-made salsa started mild but caught fire after a few bites. But neither the bisque nor the salsa overwhelmed to the point where extra beverages were required.

157 North U.S. Highway 1, Tequesta, Florida
26.961189508438 ; -80.084484815598

Entrees of a mahi Reuben with skin-on French fries and seafood capellini were good choices. The sandwich, served on marbled rye with slaw topping the fish, was fresh and just thick enough to satisfy without being too much. The pasta dish, with shrimp, scallops, tomatoes, onion, garlic and spinach, was a perfect portion with its side of Texas garlic toast. There was just enough sauce left on the bottom of the bowl for dipping the bread.

Shannon the waiter was fast on his feet and working the dining room like he was eager to please. He did a great job keeping the dishes well-paced and drinks refilled.

Prices are what you would expect for quality seafood: entrees are priced at $17-$20, appetizers and salads $8-$12 and the signature sushi $11-$30. There were some minor hiccups, which are not unexpected given that the restaurant has only recently opened. The mahi Reuben arrived at the table unsliced (easily remedied with a butter knife) and sweeteners for the iced teas had to be requested. But Shannon brought freshly shaved Parmesan cheese to the table, a plus for any pasta lover. The wine list, mostly California selections with additions from Italy, Chile and New Zealand, is small but classy. And the dessert menu, which includes a "Brownie Bomb" (Guinness in the brownie and Bailey's in the ice cream topping) and the house-made s'more with candied bacon, is reason alone to come back for sweets (and more) from Sweet's.

Sweet's Seafood Restaurant, 157 North U.S. Highway 1, Tequesta, FL. Phone (561) 744-6545. Hours: Monday through Thursday noon to 10 p.m., Friday noon to 11 p.m., Saturday noon to 1 a.m. and Sunday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Outdoor seating, children's menu, daily specials, live music, daily happy hour and Sunday brunch available.

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, Jupiter Food Examiner

Nancy Munro is a 20-year resident of Palm Beach County. She has spent most of her working career in the legal and media fields, but the rest of her time around food: preparing it, eating it, and finding gourmet products. Nancy is a volunteer cook with the local AIDS organization, and leads an...

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