When I heard Los Angeles favorite, Mondrian, was opening a new outpost in SoHo, my first thought was “What took so long?” However, knowing the detailed attention that the Morgans Group affords each new property, I wondered how special my city’s Mondrian would be. Then, when news broke that the restaurant would be helmed by hot Top Chef alum Sam Talbot, most recently of Montauk’s Surf Lodge fame, I became more curious. And excited. Out in Montauk, Surf Lodge was my summer go-to. I anticipated Talbot’s signature flannel and baseball cap passing through the dining room as I slurped on mussels in Thai curry sauce and fries. At a slick Mondrian, I wondered about Talbot’s vibe, his accessibility, and most importantly, his cooking. Talbot’s comings and goings kept Page Six busy for a while, so I wasn’t worried about his Mondrian-worthiness, but would social curiosity overshadow his food?
At the Mondrian SoHo, a topiary covered entrance meets a playful French blue lobby off of which Imperial No. Nine sits. The main dining room faces Crosby Street, a glass wall reflecting the shimmer of the room’s crystal chandeliers. When the post-sunset candles are lit, the room glows with warmth and intimacy. The main room overflows into a two-room bar and second dining room. Here, mirrored tables, metallic fabrics, beige walls, and plush banquettes line the rooms. All of the edges are soft, and the space is feminine and warm.
Unsurprisingly, Imperial No. Nine pulses with energy. All walks are represented—fashion clad girls with $1000 purses, impossibly hip boys with slight builds and hard-rimmed glasses, balding Wall Street suits, tourists with checkered shirts from places like Kansas. In true downtown fashion, all co-exist peacefully.
Sexy? Check. Romantic? Check. Glamorous? Check, check. So, when Talbot slid through the dining room in a cap, dark-colored flannel and apron, it made me smile. For all the gloss, the fame, the glam, he’s still just kicking it Montauk style. Imperial No. 9 couldn’t be more different than Talbot’s Surf Lodge, but at the same time, it suits him. Yes, former Mets pitcher Al Leiter and friends were at the table next to us. Yes, Bon Jovi stopped in the week prior, but as much as the scene was worthwhile, so was the food.
Dedicated to sustainability, the menu is a seafood-heavy selection of raw bar, main plates, and a daily catch. In my visits to Imperial No. Nine, I was able to sample a good portion of Talbot’s creations. Outside of a few needed tweaks, almost all hit the mark.
To start, the cauliflower fritters ($12) with ricotta and an amazing sunflower seed brittle were addictive, while the raw tuna ($22) put the usual tuna tartar appetizer on most menus to shame. Talbot’s tuna blended large chunks of high-grade sashimi, grapefruit, and a spicy mustard. Served with buttered stecca, which most resembles hoagie bread, this dish rocked my world. Another standout was the blue corn shrimp and grits ($15), which used just the right amount of cheddar, a dash of maple syrup for sweetness, and gooey poached egg as topper. The fluke sashimi ($16) with frozen coconut played with temperature, while the fried oysters ($19) were a good complement, as well as a table pleaser. Then again, it’s hard to go wrong with fried oysters.
For larger plates, there are a lot of flavors at work that play fun tricks on the palate. The slow cooked octopus laced with jalapeno essence ($21) had a good kick though the lime and soy saucing was a bit heavy-handed. The scallops with clams and lardons ($26) had rich, smoky flavors, but the scallops were slightly undercooked. The grilled king crab legs ($30)—truly one of my favorite things—had so much potential, but were too buttered-up and way overcooked. Perfectly executed were the garlic marinated chicken thighs ($24), and though the larger plates didn’t deliver as wonderfully as the appetizers, I’m confident that as more time passes, Talbot’s kitchen will make them sing.
When it comes time for dessert, don’t skimp. The soft, fresh cookies and the bread pudding with salted caramel ice cream are near bliss. With respect to cocktails, all of the tequila-soaked drinks scored points. Dishes are made for sharing, so beware of big eyes when ordering off Imperial No. Nine’s menu. Best bet? Go with a large group. And if you like what Talbot’s doing in the kitchen, flag him down when he passes through the dining room. I’m quite sure he’ll swing by for a chat.
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