Though the website touts it’s setting as a“unique garden plaza overlooking the East River,” I can’t help but scratch my head over Tom Colicchio’s location choice of the otherwise excellent Riverpark. Let’s face it: the East River has never been the “it” destination of New York City (even for fifteen minutes), and the back corner of an austere office building in the doldrums of Murray Hill’s 30’s might be a haven for NYU doctors, but Siberia for those just looking a hot meal at a restaurant helmed by a celebrity chef. That said, once I actually found Riverpark (it took three tries) and settled into my waterfront table with my equally confused dining partner, I was happy I made the trek.
The room itself is textbook Colicchio. It feels like Craft, Craftsteak (now Colicchio & Sons), and Craftbar with the high ceilings, oversized tables, a visible wine room, and modern lighting. Here, sun floods through the floor to ceiling windows, enhancing the minimalist décor. Despite myself, I liked Riverpark immediately, though I wasn’t initially certain I’d make the effort to return in the evening. Then, the food began to arrive…
First of all, those almonds! When the server plated kitchen comps of spiced almonds, smoked olives ($6), and homemade potato chips with Gorgonzola dipping sauce ($5), my pupils dilated. I assumed I’d hog the chips and cheese, but one almond and I was hooked. Perfectly spiced, gently toasted, these were the ultimate starter. I admit; I almost forgave Riverpark its location on almonds alone.
Like at Craft and Craftbar, a raw bar and charcuterie is available with oysters, tartares, and pates to whet the palate. I began with a hamachi crudo and tartare ($14) with pomegranate vinaigrette that didn’t deliver on the promise. Overly fishy in flavor, a little oily in texture, I was disappointed in my selection but that was the meal’s only low moment. My dining partner began with a butternut squash and apple soup ($6) that he loved; his slurping made me jealous after I stole a taste. Salads like the Caesar ($9) and a warm prawn and artichoke salad ($18) were in plentiful supply on other tables, but the comfort food driven menu tempted me with more decadent offerings.
While the cheeseburger ($14) called my name, two hearty dishes won our votes: the fried chicken ($17) and the lasagna with Bolognese, spinach and béchamel ($16). It was the kind of gray day where these types of dishes can make all the difference. And. They. Did. The coating on the fried chicken was spiced just right and crusted in all the right places. Served with biscuits (!) and a black pepper honey, my partner was rightfully greedy with his choice. That’s okay, because my lasagna was equally sublime. Laden with cheese, layered thoughtfully, each rich bite sent my taste buds soaring. Too much for one sitting, I had lunch for the following day, to boot.
Dishes like grilled leg of lamb ($17), roasted trout ($15), skirt steak frites ($18), as well as grilled cheese paired with the aforementioned soup ($13) round out the menu. Reasonable prices assure diners will be happy with the bill, and even though we had dessert, I was too focused on everything else about Riverpark to remember what that dessert actually was.
On exit, Riverpark offers guests packets of the very herbs they tasted in their food. Pocketing a couple of basil seeds as I pulled on my overcoat, I was handed my leftover lasagna. When I peeked into the bag, I noticed another container—some almonds for the road, smiled the hostess conspiratorially.
So, now it’s official: location forgiven.
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