Despite weeks of slippery roads and weeping snow mixed with rain, despite the lack of a shingle, the crowds are jamming the new Euro-bistro Park Bruges www.pointbrugge.com on Bryant Street in Highland Park, the sibling venture of Point Brugge in Point Breeze. People have been sighted lining up around the building and down the sidewalk, and judging strictly by the conviviality pouring forth on my first stop, I’m pretty sure I could have pulled up a chair and joined any of the parties holding court. Instead, I returned on a Thursday at 4:30 p.m. "That's the secret for now," winked our host.
With lunch over, and dinner formally commencing at 3 p.m., we get a parking spot, our choice of seating, good service and nobody’s rubbernecking. Since it’s not packed-to-the-gills, at this juncture between peak dining hours, it felt a bit…empty. Breaking the mood, our server inquired “may I light your candle?” ever so sweetly. It was all of the atmosphere we needed. “Jim Morrison’s sentiments exactly,” quipped Mr. Dish, as he began humming the beginning strains of the rock classic “C’mon baby light my fire.”
The Highland Park outpost uses the French spelling “Bruges” rather that the Flemish “Brugge” coined at the Point Breeze locale (both are spoken in Belgium), with the same Euro-intentions, but an airier feel upon entering, a benefit of huge plate glass windows that span the Bryant Street sidewalk. Décor is minimalist, a wooden floor, maroon booths, scattered tables, some modern art, and a great shiny bar accented with penny tile dominating the front of the house.
"We're not the quiet, romantic place," laughs owner Jesse Seager. "We're packed and loud and rubbin' elbows at the bar."
First thing, we ordered the PEI mussels in classic white wine with shallots and herbed beurre blanc. The mussels are tremendous--fresh fresh fresh...yes, as good as Point Brugges, though one crust of bread is simply not enough to mop up all of the juice in my bowl. There is a second option too, a spicy Creole version with andouille sausage, peppers, onions, celery and crumbled Maytag Bleu (both, $11). Either way, one order for two is bordering on decadent.
At the urging of our server, Mr. Dish ordered tarte flambee with crème fraiche, caramelized onions, Parma rosemary ham, chives, shaved cheese, listed again as a classic version for $12. It resembles flatbread pizza, with ham sliced paper thin, and better yet, not too cheesy. Burgers are as good as Brugge’s, great coleslaw, and as the crowd thickens, everyone is trying poutine, the official street food of Montreal. Again, the house offers a “classic” version (Ohio Amish white cheddar curds & stock gravy, $8) or carnitas (chipolte pulled pork, the same Ohio Amish cheddar, scallions, cilantro, stock gravy, $10). I'll have to wait, but I do love the twice cooked frites ($5) served with roasted garlic Dijon mayo.
By the way, a printed beer list on every table makes sense, as the house concentrates on 60-70 Belgian bottles and American craft options and imports, with 5 rotating taps.
We’re not yet famished this early in the evening, so the striped bass special and steak frites are on hold for another time. Besides, I’m not one to forego dessert. We shared an order of profiteroles, three thick, heavy rounds of sliced pastry filled with a lush hazelnut gelato, lightly drizzled with chocolate and caramel, understated but wonderful.
If things seem familiar, that's executive chef Kevin Humminen in the kitchen, originally executive chef at Pointe Brugge. "It's fun, European bistro food," says owner Seager. "The true soul of both places is the unbelievable neighborhood and the people who make it come alive."
Pointe Brugge has maintained an excitement about it that doesn’t exist in many restaurants these days, and its sister venture Park Bruges seems up to the challenge--a Euro-bistro with good instincts, an eclectic menu, a huge Belgian beer selection; I’m thinking lunch at Park Bruge, dinner at Pointe Brugges, or vice versa. Either way, it’d be sweetly decadent.
Park Bruges www.pointbrugge.com 5801 Bryant Street, Highland Park. 412-661-3334. Lunch Tues.-Fri. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Dinner Tues.-Sat. 3-10 p.m.; 3-9 p.m. Sun.; Brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.& Sun.
NOTE: 4 sidewalk tables will be prime real estate when the weather turns.
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