Given the reputation of the Lamazou cheese and sandwich shop, the expectations for Bistro Lamazou were palpable; however, customers will be left wanting.
The decor is over-the-top to say the least. The combination of neon red and yellow lighting, bright orange walls and a huge art deco mural at the rear of the restaurant conjures up nightmares of being trapped in a lava lamp.
The Cheese and Charcuterie Sampler was the highlight of the menu, which is to be expected given the restaurant's roots. The cheese comes sliced into perfect bite-sized pieces so you don't have to do any knife work. And proscuitto comes draped over a martini glass among skewers of melon balls. Trust the recommendations of the "Chef du Fromage." Her passion and extensive knowledge is clear as she describes the options, and her selections won't disappoint. She is also open to requests if you have a particular favorite.
The appetizers range from the mundane soups and salads to foie gras. The soup of the day, Porcini Truffle Soup, tasted like a slightly more sophisticated Campbell's cream of mushroom soup, without even the slightest hint of truffle. The Roasted Beet Salad, on the other hand, was a playful take on a "beef" tartar, with finely chopped pieces of roasted beets, molded into a ring and surrounded by candied pecans and a sherry-vinaigrette sauce.
Both duck entrees - the special of the day, Duck au Vin, and the Grilled Moulard Duck Breat - were desparate for flavor. The fat was not properly rendered on either dish, leaving it thick, gelatinous and chewy.
Moving away from France to a Moroccan-inspired entree, the Couscous Royal was bursting with flavor that keeps you guessing with every bite. It is served in a large, deep bowl and topped with lamb, merguez (a beef-based sausage), chicken and vegetables. The chicken was extremely juice, with just the right balance of spices. The merguez was robust and spicy, without overwhelming the palate. And the lamb was a beautifully cooked medium rare. The namesake of the dish, however, was completely overwhelmed by all the contents smotherered on top.
There were no surprises on the dessert menu, which included all the bistro basics. The Honey and Grand Marnier Crème Brulée evokes memories of sitting at home at the kitchen table eating Jello vanilla pudding out of a plastic container. But the homemade madeleines that come on the side deserve to be their own dessert, rather than relegated to a garnish. They come out warm, buttery and topped with a sprinkle of sugar.
Overall, this restaurant is trying too hard. If you're looking for a great artisanal cheese plate with a nice selection of wine, this is the place for you. But if you want anything more, there a plenty of other options in the area.
Bistro Lamazou
344 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10010
212-481-8550
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