Text and Slideshow by Susanna Starr
Rather than try to see as much of Ecuador as we could, we opted for a long term stay in Cuenca, a city that was a good deal smaller than the capital city of Quito to the north and quieter than the more largely populated city of Guayaquil on the Pacific coast. Four rivers run through Cuenca, carrying their waters down from a height of more than 14,000 feet. The river banks are kept pristine with lush green grass and beautiful plantings along some, treed areas along others and always with spaces to sit, relax and enjoy the beauty and serenity. Some have playground areas, obviously designed to provide a place for families. There are walking paths everywhere. Signs are prominently displayed declaring that this has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and the people are proud of this status.
Although Cuenca has a small community of ex-patriots, the city itself is very much a blend of indigenous people and those descended from Europeans who settled the area centuries ago, as well as a mixture of both. Well worth while is a visit to the Museum of Indigenous Culture that features artifacts of an ancient culture, the Cañari, that pre-dates the Inca. Another museum has an ongoing exhibit of fine textiles and traditional costumes, for which the area is known.
Around the town square, called Parque Calderon, is the hub of the city and in this area one can see many of the indigenous women dressed in their full skirt and fedora looking hats. They are extremely reserved but still participate in commerce such as the outstanding flower market where many are vendors of the abundant flowers grown in the surrounding areas, as well as plants for gardens. One might see vendors with their goats providing the fresh milk they sell on the spot. There are others with carts piled high with cherries that are truly a picture. A small outdoor market sells local crafts, ranging from baskets to hand carved wooden spoons.
The accommodations in Cuenca range from modest to luxurious but Mansion Alcazar Hotel Boutique is memorable. Built in the traditional colonial manner around an enclosed courtyard, the owner, Rocio Vasquez, and her husband, well known California interior designer, Robert McCartney, have converted what was once a private mansion to an elegant boutique hotel. Originally built for one of Ecuador’s first presidents, the property, badly in need of repair, was purchased in the late 1990’s by Rocio’s father.
Using some of the furniture that has been in her family for generations, and having the rest commissioned by them, they have restored the mansion to its former beauty, enhancing it with their own fine taste and careful attention to minute details. Elegant antiques and fresh flowers provide that special touch. In addition to the stunning interior courtyard, there is also an outdoor dining patio, surrounded by carefully designed gardens. Robert’s architectural influence is shown in the free standing pergola-like enclosed garden dining room, reminiscent of an English tearoom, as well as the dark wood paneled bar just inside the entry. His stamp is also on the eleven individual rooms and three suites, particularly in one of the stunning master suites that is sumptuous without being pretentious.
Elegance is the one defining word for Mansion Alcazar. It is also the defining description of the owner, Rocio Vasquez. A native of Cuenca, she has traveled extensively in Europe, South America and the United States. She also served for some time on the Cabinet, in her capacity as Minister of Tourism. For a number of years she was the manager of a major hotel. Given her strong background in hospitality and her own innate sense of aesthetics, combined with the aesthetics and interior design career of her husband, this boutique hotel offers both the intimacy and personal attention that has become increasingly hard to find. As is traditional throughout Latin America, the exterior of a building often does not provide any idea of what lies inside. Once you have stepped across the threshold, you find yourself in an oasis of timeless beauty and elegance, as well as the privacy only afforded by a small boutique hotel.
One of the two newest projects is the addition of five garden suites and, responding to the current desire for spa activities on the part of many travelers, the new spa on the property adjacent to the back garden has become another manifestation of their vision. This new facility, designed to accommodate relaxing luxury treatments. is now available. According to Rocio, “the idea is to offer complete relaxation with us, far from the crowd.” In keeping with what has already been created, this new addition provides a service dedicated to pampering the body as well as providing tranquility for the spirit.
The year-round spring like climate, the clean air and water, the availability of world-class accommodations like Mansion Alcazar, the beauty of the location with the rivers running though it and the awe-inspiring presence of the towering Andes, all combine to make Cuenca a travel destination worth considering.
Mansion Alcazar Boutique Hotel
Calle Bolivar 12-55 y Tarqui
Cuenca, Ecuador, South America
www.mansionalcazar.com
Cuenca Information
http://www.ecuador.us/cuenca.htm
http://www.exploringecuador.com/en_ar_cuenca_ecuador.htm
UNESCO World Heritage listing
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/863
Clich here to see Mansion Alcazar Boutique Hotel, Elegance in Cuenca, Ecuador slideshow.
Susanna Starr is a travel writer, entrepreneur, photographer, speaker and artist. She holds a degree in philosophy from Stony Brook State University of New York. She is the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Assn.’s Regional Membership coordinator (RMC)) for Oaxaca & Mexican Caribbean, Mexico. Susanna has over twenty years experience in the hospitality business as owner of Rancho Encantado, an eco-resort and spa in Mexico. She has lived in Northern New Mexico for more than thirty five years. Susanna is the author of the book: Fifty and Beyond: New Beginnings in Health and Well-Being published by Paloma Blanca Press. Recent publications include: Soul of Travel Magazine (online); Examiner.com; Yourlifeisatrip.com & Global Writes.
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