Luang Prabang, home to 32 wats and hundreds of low slung guest houses nestled into the thick foliage lining the banks of the Mekong, appears at first glance to cater to the backpacker crowd. Travel a few blocks toward the lofty mountains looming over the town, however, to find hidden luxury in an unlikely place—the old colonial prison. Hotel de la Paix is a vision of contrasts, blending the austere lines of the prison walls with soft touches to sooth the soul.
Located in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Luang Prabang, the new hotel, like any other property within the protected zone, must adhere to strict requirements to preserve the original architecture and building materials. Working within these constraints has led to some interesting compromises, such as a temporary lack of signage outside the property due to some regulatory snafu. This has led to an unintended feeling of extreme exclusivity since there is no indication whatsoever as to what the site currently is.
The restrictions do not extend to the high-ceilinged guest rooms, most of which have a unique indoor-outdoor bath that can be closed off if desired, or opened to a private garden for al fresco bathing in a glass-enclosed shower or large tub. The bed is sumptuously restful with high-thread count linens and bed-net suspended over a sturdy frame. Dark furniture stands starkly against white, unadorned walls, resulting in a clean, if somewhat ascetic look, softened by the natural scene from large glass doors leading to the garden. The four corner rooms each have a small outdoor pool in the private garden area. Gates cloaked in foliage can provide passage between adjacent gardens for groups traveling together.
The hotel, which has variously served as a fort, prison and governor’s mansion, is set within the original high walls of the compound, with guest rooms set up around the inside perimeter. The vast central space has been left open to a large garden, flanked on either side by a swimming pool and reflecting pool. At the far end of the property is a small restaurant located in the Sabai Library Lounge, and behind that is another small courtyard where the spa is located. A large building constructed in a traditional long-house style originally housed the restaurant. According to Greg Seddon, Director of Sales and Marketing, “The guests voted with their feet,” choosing to take their meals in the library or patio, so the restaurant is now located there. The original restaurant space is in transition, perhaps to be used for meeting space or other purposes.
Food at the restaurant is expertly prepared and seasoned, whether western style scrambled eggs with hashed potatoes, grilled tomato and fresh pastries, to regional specialties such as steamed fish with sticky rice. An impressive array of wines imported from Europe, North and South America and Australia lines one wall of the library in a glass case. Cooking classes are available on-site, given by the executive chef, Chef Somroj in an outdoor Lao kitchen.
Amenities at the hotel include spa, bicycles and gift shop. The spa facilities offer a full range of services including massage, reflexology, manicure and pedicure. Bicycles are provided at no charge for guest use, which is helpful as the property is located just outside of the tourist core, a short, level ride away. A small gift shop is located near the front entrance, with some fine examples of Lao handicraft. There is no business center but there is free Wi-Fi in guest rooms and public spaces. The staff in the reception area is able to print documents that are emailed to them or provided on a flash drive.
The helpful and courteous staff speaks enough English to allow basic communication though this is an area the facility is working to improve. The staff is also able to assist with planning local activities, from Mekong River cruises to elephant rides.
Hotel de la Paix is a luxury hotel with a unique heritage, located in a town rich in cultural history. The hotel provides a comfortable and relaxing home base for exploring the town and surrounding region.
Click on slide show at left to see images of Hotel de la Paix.
Information:
Hotel de la Paix
Unit 4/Ban Mano,
Old Prison Road
Luang Prabang, 0600,
Lao, P.D.R.
Phone: 856-71-260-777
Email: www.hoteldelapaixlp.com
Getting There:
Flights to Luang Prabang, Laos are available from Bangkok (Thailand), Hanoi (Vietnam) and other regional locations on Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com)
Hotel de la Paix provides complimentary airport pickup.
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