An idyllic garden space set in the middle of a buzzing city, Hudson Clearwater is a refreshing new addition to New York’s restaurant scene. A combination of low-attitude, quality product, reasonable prices, and a killer setting, this is one of those city’s finds that you’ll debate sharing with your friends or keeping to yourself. Even though I’m writing about it, my advice is to keep it to yourself.
Hudson Clearwater’s address is 447 Hudson Street, but that address is a boarded up storefront on a quiet strip of the West Village. Just around the corner on Morton Street is a green door, propped open suggestively, that seems to garner a bit of curious traffic. Voila! Hudson Clearwater.
Immediately, you’ll be smitten. The brick garden houses about ten small bistro tables. A rope of small bulbs dips above, candles light the space down low. A stairway cuts up the middle leading to a cozy interior bar and restaurant. We walked in without a reservation on both visits, and the staff couldn’t have been more accommodating. Pick a table, any table. Both times, we settled in the garden, which stops serving at 10 PM, presumably to keep neighbors happy.
Being summer, a nice rosé from Provence seemed appropriate, though the wine list is a well-chosen collection of juices from France, Italy, and California predominantly, and some Spanish, Oregonian, Argentinean, and New Zealand selections thrown in for good measure. Most are well under $100 (starting as low as $28), outside of a few reserves, so go ahead and order a bottle.
A special salad was being offered on my first visit. Made with fennel, sauced with tomato-cucumber chipotle vinaigrette, and sprinkled with toasted almonds and parm, this was the standout, though the beet, goat cheese and watercress salad ($8) was another table favorite. The appetizers are small, but savory. The butter clams and gnocchi ($12) are served in a lemon “vinaigrette” that is more soup than sauce so let the accompanying crostini soak a bit before popping it into your mouth. You’ll be thankful you waited when the flavors settle on your tongue. The veggie potpie ($9), served in a cup-of-soup-sized portion, is a good twist on an old classic. Served in a flaky pastry with just the right amount of béchamel, I could have easily devoured another serving. The crispy duck leg ($13) is a bit heartier, and presented over a spicy maux choux (sweet corn with onions, peppers, jalapenos) and, in my opinion, wins the award for best dish.
Five entrees (plus a special) are presented daily. Duck, which seems to be the ubiquitous menu item of the season, appears again. In this preparation, it comes as a breast with tarragon-roasted potatoes and a peppercorn jus ($19). Steak served with chimichurri and crisped au gratin potatoes ($19) seemed the go-to dish on most tables, with the striped bass with fingerling potatoes and haricot vert ($19) coming in a close second. A quinoa risotto ($16) with mushroom and Parmesan found an audience with the vegetarians, and a spice-rubbed pork chop ($18) rounded out the list.
Dessert doesn’t feel as special as the rest of the menu, though the lemon bar ($6) delivered the sweetness I was looking for post-meal, and though finding Hudson Clearwater is a minor challenge, once inside, you’ll be thrilled you made the effort.
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