Southern means comfort for so many reasons when it comes to a plate of food and, other than chicken ‘n dumplings, perhaps nothing soothes the soul like a well-made chunk of fried chicken. Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch in Marina del Rey (on Washington, a kite’s fly away from the Pacific) does one of the better crispy birds in the city.
The menu offers the option of legs, thighs, wings or breasts in a variety of combinations. For $8.95 at lunch time, the breast and thigh combo is the best bet for meat volume. As the menu says, the process will take at least 20 minutes to complete. No problem, enjoy the warm, hearty cornbread with chunks of kernels and honey served on the side. Pop a cold Red Stripe beer and lap up the cool ocean breezes on the upstairs patio, and let the pace of the South overtake you.
The chicken comes fried to the color of a baseball mitt and, if tried within the first eight minutes is like biting into the surface of the sun. A splash of grease kisses your cheek as the white-hot flesh sears your tongue. If pain is pleasure, this is pure Heaven.
Once the damned beast cools a bit, the flavors become harmonious with a perfection of succulent flesh wrapped in a crispy, Crisco-covered gift. If you’re married, take off your ring as the juice drizzles down all digits during the entire scarfing process.
You can also get the same juicy chicken baked, smothered in gravy or BBQ sauce. All fine options, but not in the realm of the frisky fried bird. Sides are pure slices of Louisiana life – bitter greens braised sweet with sugar, red beans and pork chunks the size of knuckles, earthy black eyed peas or crispy-crusted mac and cheese. Deep-fried okra costs an extra $3.50 and seems superfluous. Yet a dollop of Red Rooster on anything makes the experience even more a travelogue of Southern greatness.
Catfish and snapper are blackened, but for $16.95 that seems too much for gutter fish. Stay with the chicken and, if chicken ‘n dumplings is your longing, Aunt Kizzy’s features this classic Southern bowl of warm blanketness on most weekend nights.
To think great Southern fried chicken exists in Los Angeles a beignets throw from the ocean is just another reason why this city holds such a magic appeal.
Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch
523 Washington Blvd.
Marina Del Rey, CA 90292
Phone: (310) 578-1005
Free parking in strip mall lot
Beer, wine and champagne only
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