French food… un plat délicieux! What is the first thought that comes to mind about French food? Rich sauces? Avant garde foods? Pretense? High cost? Small portions that make stopping for take-out on the drive home a necessity? Gluten laden?
Jean Hubert’s Le St. Tropez in Carmel by the Sea challenges that paradigm and does it deliciously with a menu anchored in southern French fare.
French food with local conscience and universal awareness
Perhaps it was his Santa Cruz roots, training in San Francisco and then in the south of France that influenced Chef Jean’s winning blueprint for Le St. Tropez. The restaurant is a family business with local consciousness. With help from wife Mary Medora Hubert only the freshest of ingredients are obtained from local producers and backyard gardens. Chef Jean also nurtures his own herb garden.
Organic greens, berries and beets with goat cheese are the stars in the Salade Des Artistes, local vegetables and white beans magnificently cradle the Hawaiian caught swordfish entrée special and Watsonville Pippin apples anchor the Apple Crisp and delight the senses.
To say that Chef Jean is only a great cook with local focus is a big understatement. This is a chef with universal awareness, well versed on subjects as diverse as the politics of factory farming subsidies to why smart people choose unhealthy lifestyle habits to the implied meaning of French cuisine to the inexperienced.
This is also a warm, sociable guy that loves to mingle with his guests, invite feedback and take on the challenge to fulfill the goal of conscious, but delicious, eating. All of which is reflected in the menu.
Gluten free successfully
When the first gluten free order was requested, Jean quickly consulted the internet. His son, now in high school, had wheat related allergies as a baby. But gluten free was a new concept. “I concluded that gluten free was just a wheat problem,” he laughs. “But I quickly learned otherwise.”
Success with developing gluten free patronage was assisted with the use of several products developed by a local baker well versed in gluten and other food related health issues, Sandie of Wild Coast Foods.
Chef Jean was also able to change the ingredients of many menu items to accommodate gluten free without sacrificing taste or the fine dining experience. “The goal was to provide a classic French cuisine experience within a stress free and gluten free format,” he states.
Challenged but not intimidated by gluten free
The kitchen is not a dedicated gluten free operation, but the staff is well trained on necessary protocols and how to avoid cross contamination. “I have two families that now come in regularly,” Jean explains. “One of the kids is a Celiac with a very high level of sensitivity to gluten.”
He continues, “Chefs should not be intimidated by making changes in flours or ingredients to accommodate gluten free requirements. This provided me experience with other flours, such as coconut and chickpea, to create signature gourmet items for mainstream consumption that just happens to be gluten free.”
Among his original cookery are a blue corn puff with caviar (recently featured at a private luncheon) and a pizza crust where any diner doesn’t miss the gluten.
It is advisable to call ahead with reservations and note gluten free requirements.
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