The phrase “restaurant group” scares the pants off of me, but the beauty of a restaurant group that reinvents their own formula with each successive opening is the kind of restaurant group that I love. Each new establishment feels fresh, the food evolves, and the clientele morphs from place to place. The rock star team of Gabe Thompson (ex Del Posto alum) and Joe Campanale (ex Babbo alum) are the still-boyish faces behind dell’anima, L’Artusi, Anfora, and now, Ellabess in the relatively new Nolitan Hotel. The pairing is one of those aforementioned types—a keeper.
When tiny dell’anima opened in 2007, it was a low-key Italian spot for serious eaters who wanted to sit at the counter of the open kitchen and oversee ingredients lovingly prepared. L’Artusi, dell’anima’s older, more playful big brother upped the game. The menu hits similar notes—local ingredients, pastas, delicate fish and meat dishes, but the space was conducive to groups, drinking buddies, and a bevy of fashion week parties that preferred the small plate concept. Anfora, the always-packed 8th Avenue wine bar, highlighted Campanale’s talent as noteworthy sommelier. Now Ellabess, the most ambitious venture, steps into the limelight.
Situated on a prime Elizabeth and Kenmare Street corner, Ellabess looks out onto busy Nolita from two sides of sundrenched full-length windows. The dining room, a sunken space off the hotel’s lobby, is larger and less intimate than Thompson and Campanale’s other restaurants. This isn’t the place to canoodle with a date over lush Italian wines; it’s a place to go for a straight up meal.
Noticeably absent from the Ellabess menu are the irresistible pastas featured at dell’anima and L’Artusi as the focus here is New American seafood. It almost feels like each plate is exquisitely prepared to highlight such differences. Regardless, it works. Start with one of the many wonderful appetizers, including a perfect raw fluke with sweet watermelon, a kick of chili, and cool mint, or the rainbow colored market vegetable and herb salad accompanied by ricotta. Most interesting, the deconstructed clam chowder featuring clams, potatoes, leeks, and caviar evokes the flavor of summer chowders with modern flair (and no heavy cream). The essence of uni butter on the peekytoe crab salad is worth the order alone.
The entrees didn’t feel as special as the appetizers at Ellabess and the selections felt mismatched. The shrimp, grits and okra and lightly fried chicken breast were salty, heavier Southern offerings. The salmon laced with blueberries, and bass in melon consommé felt almost too light and fruity by comparison. A strip steak anchored the menu, but didn’t really entice. Don’t get me wrong, all succeeded on taste, but none wowed like the more even-handed first course. For sides, the potato bacon croquettes were a winner as expected, as was the chile-grilled corn.
I imagine that like dell’anima and L’Artusi before it, Ellabess will find sure footing and a loyal crowd. It moves in a new direction and, for the most part, succeeds. I, for one, will be back; I’m already curious to see what they’ll be serving through the fall.
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